Description: A fine and important Chanel couture gold satin evening ensemble, circa 1930-31, narrow woven label and indistinctly stamped 5229 (dress) and 5230 (jacket), bias cut, the jacket formed from patch-worked panels which form petal shapes towards the flared hem, all with double rows of top-stitch edging, self lined; the dress with top-stitched V-neck, zig-zag waistline above gored flared skirt, bust 92cm, 38in; together with a matching pair of gold leather shoes, maker's label indistinct, size 7 1/2 (4) Provenance: the descendant of an aristocratic family from the Swabian region of Germany. The Metropolitan Museum includes in its collection a similar dress and jacket with similar top-stitched detailing, see accession no 1984.437a, b.
Condition Report: • Jacket is good condition, slight scuffing to satin in places. It is self-lined. Complex sleeve construction with top-stitched patchwork panels. Satin slightly rubbed at right underarm. Also very slight wear to satin on bases of front right and left petal bands on front opening. Very slight soiling. 3 tiny rust spots to inside left side. Lining - left underarm seam needs re-stitching. Very fresh appearance generally and good condition. Small frayed area to top of left sleeve. • Dress - straps have been folded over and tacked in place to shorten. Top-stitched edging is slightly worn at the top. Slight seam pull at left underarm. Faint perspiration stains at both underarms. Top stitching is rubbed at right underarm and very edge is frayed. Seam needs restitching approx. 1cm. Very slight soiling to left hip area (barely visible). Small scuff to satin approx. 1cm diam near front hem. There occasional small scuffs and slight mark/stains in the satin but the overall appearance is good. Faint watermarks to rear of skirt. Chiffon bodice lining to front is torn, especially over the shoulders. It has been tacked in places along the front of the bodice and these small tacking stitches are visible on the front bodice. The skirt has been re-sewn at the zig-zag waist. The finishing here is much cruder than in the rest of the dress.
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