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Auction Description for Kerry Taylor: COSTUME AND TEXTILES
Viewing Notes:
11th October 9am - 5pm, 13 October 12 noon - 4pm.
Sale Notes:
PLEASE NOTE: We will not be approving bidders on the morning of the sale so please submit for approval by end of Sunday 13th October if you wish to bid.
Please note the sale will recommence at 2pm from lot 301
www.invaluable.com/kerrytaylorauctions

COSTUME AND TEXTILES

by Kerry Taylor Auctions


551 lots | 550 with images

October 14, 2013

Live Auction

249-253 Long Lane

London, SE1 4PR United Kingdom

Phone: +44 (0)20 8676 4600

Fax: +44 (0)20 3137 0112

Email: info@kerrytaylorauctions.com

551 Lots
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A lawn and Valenciennes summer gown, circa

Lot 1: A lawn and Valenciennes summer gown, circa

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Description: A lawn and Valenciennes summer gown, circa 1905-10, with high neck, shirred and gathered waist, deep lace insertions to bodice and hem, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in Provenance: ex Castle Howard collection.

Condition Report: Good condition, vertical repair below the back opening, couple of small spot stains

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A whitework embroidered and Valenciennes inset

Lot 2: A whitework embroidered and Valenciennes inset

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Description: A whitework embroidered and Valenciennes inset lawn summer gown, circa 1905, the separate bodice and skirt with tulle inset vine leaves, scrolling foliate embroidery, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in; together with a printed cotton day dress, 1890s altered from a tiered 1850s gown (4)

Condition Report: • Printed dress - bust 30-32in, waist 22in, shoulder seam to shoulder seam 13in. Good, clean, fresh appearance. Thinning to muslin approx 1-1 ½ in long at right underarm. Holes and wear to stand collar at the sides. 2 x 1in holes at rear waistband. Small hole in rear bottom hem flounce and one small faint spot stain. Most of the holes/thinning are not immediately noticeable due to the business of the print. 3 faint brown stains on rear 'bustle' belt • White dress - slight thinning in muslin on rear closure where buttons have strained and on bodice back below neck on right side. Quite a few of the tulle leaves need re-fixing at the edges on the bodice. The skirt is good condition, clean and fresh. Small hole in muslin below waistband at rear closure. Slight thinning on rear bodice where hooks attach to skirt. Shoulder seam to shoulder seam 14in

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An Hermès brown crocodile handbag, circa 1970,

Lot 3: An Hermès brown crocodile handbag, circa 1970,

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Description: An Hermès brown crocodile handbag, circa 1970, signed to the gilded clasp and stamped to the interior in gold, 25cm, 10in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU.

Condition Report: Separation along lines of 'scales' around the top curve of the bag and below the closure clasp above the stud. Scuffing to lower corners. handle has been crudely repaired where it fixes to the gilt plaque on the top of the bag. Although the soft calf-skin lining to the inner closure flap is good, the rest of the interior is heavily scuffed with use.

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A Charles and Patricia Lester cut velvet evening

Lot 4: A Charles and Patricia Lester cut velvet evening

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Description: A Charles and Patricia Lester cut velvet evening ensemble, 1980s, labelled, comprising loose batwing jacket and full-length skirt, the voided pattern revealing a ground colour in shades of mauve and purple (2)

Condition Report: Good condition

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A tamboured white gauze dress, circa 1914,

Lot 5: A tamboured white gauze dress, circa 1914,

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Description: A tamboured white gauze dress, circa 1914, together with a black broderie anglaise dress c.1910 approx 7 assorted bodices and jackets c.1910-14; a coral pink and gold chiffon dress c.1911 with large crystal medallions (lining has perished) assorted fabrics and ribbons (qty)

Condition Report: • Lace dress - good condition, but the taffeta sash has perished, holes along seam at underarms but easily repaired. Soiling on lowest hem tier, needs cleaning • Black silk broderie anglaise skirt and bodice - waist has been let out, good condition • Steel grey blouse - numerous pinhead sized moth holes • Cream silk jacket - lots of moth holes • Blue velvet jacket - very soiled, and tear at hem • Blue brocade jacket - silk is thinning over chest • Green silk bodice - badly perished • Printed organza/chiffon bodice - front chemisette has perished • Pink satin bodice - silk has perished • Broad Victoria ribbons - good condition • 17th century style silver and blue brocade evening dress c.1912 - lining has shattered • Coral chiffon dress is distressed

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A group of 1930s evening wear and accessories,

Lot 6: A group of 1930s evening wear and accessories,

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Description: A group of mainly 1930s and 40s evening wear and accessories, approx 13 assorted dresses, many of bias cut silk or lace (many large sizes), a silver lame jacket, a printed cotton day dress, WWII WVS green tweed coat and beret, nurse's uniforms, aprons; accessories including two embroidered Cantonese shawls, Lotus shoes, celluloid hair-combs, parasols including two with carved duck heads, one with articulated beak etc (qty)

Condition Report: • Large size 1940s wagon-train print dress - good condition, bust 42in • Floral 1930s print dress - bust 48in, spot stain on detachable chemisette, another on edge of lapel, another centre front skirt • Navy velvet dress 1930s - bust 36in, few small spot stains especially near front hem • 1930s blue crepe de chine day dress, bust 50in - faint stains down front and small puncture hole skirt centre front • 1940s John Carol brown rayon maternity suit - good condition • Early 1930s black crepe and satin evening dress - good condition, lightly soiled, bust 48in • Early 1930s black lace evening dress - waist seam needs restitching in places, holes in lace skirt front and back, 5cm split in lace at right underarm area, bust 48in • Mid 1930s wine lace dress - good condition, bust 42in • Gold lame jacket - tarnished, 1cm hole on chest, chiffon lining is worn • Green herringbone wool WVS coat - chest 46in, good condition • Early 1930s brown Marshall and Snelgrove evening dress, bias cut - needs cleaning, good condition, bust 50in • Early 1930s black lace evening dress - small hole right underarm, good condition, bust 46in • Early 1930s royal blue chiffon evening dress - very mildew spotted, needs cleaning, bust 48in • Navy crepe day dress - very soiled, brown stains on bodice, bust 48in • Mid 1930s black lace with corsage - lace is badly ripped and torn, very soiled, bust 36in • C.1929 black lace with rhinestones - numerous holes in lace, very soiled, bust 48in • Accessories - Lotus shoes are UK size 6 and in good condition; printed cotton 1920s-30s parasol has holes in canopy; black silk umbrella has small splits; ivory Cantonese shawl has large stains; black embroidered shawl is good condition; 30s hat in good condition; WVCS beret and armbands in good condition; one of the duck head parasols is broken at the neck, the other the canopy has completely shattered.

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A Christian Lacroix gold and black brocatelle

Lot 7: A Christian Lacroix gold and black brocatelle

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Description: A Christian Lacroix gold and black brocatelle jacket, 1980s, yellow couture label, with pink satin collar, bust 92cm, 36in; together with a Dior boutique knitted and sequined top and jacket and a Dior oyster satin nightdress and negligee with lace applique (5)

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A Thierry Mugler black wool and velvet redingote,

Lot 8: A Thierry Mugler black wool and velvet redingote,

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Description: A Thierry Mugler black wool and velvet redingote, circa 1990, with blue label and size 40, the curved, padded hips outlined in velvet, chest 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in

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Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled,

Lot 9: Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled,

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Description: Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled, one of royal blue wool crepe with silvered spikes to the closure, size 40, chest 92cm, 36in, waist 69cm, 27in; the other of black gaberdine, size 40, with handkerchief to breast pocket, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in (4)

Condition Report: Both suits in good condition. Lining on black jacket slightly soiled, needs a clean but good. Blue suit in good condition. Both hips 36in.

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Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled

Lot 10: Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled

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Description: Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled and size 40, one of red gabardine with petal shaped pleats to jacket hem, chest 102cm, 40in, waist 71cm, 28in; the other of tan gabardine with handkerchief to breast pocket, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in (4)

Condition Report: Good condition. Red suit has a couple of small marks down front of skirt and jacket, top-stitched skirt seam has come undone approx 1cm. Beige in good condition. Both hips 36in.

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Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled

Lot 11: Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled

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Description: Two Thierry Mugler suits, early 1990s, labelled and size 40, one of black rose patterned flocked velvet/wool, with drapes to hips; the other of pin-striped grey wool, the double breasted long jacket with curved faux pocket flaps to the hips, both chest 97cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in (4)

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A Yuki red pleated evening gown, probably

Lot 12: A Yuki red pleated evening gown, probably

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Description: A Yuki red pleated evening gown, probably Autumn-Winter 1987, Gnyuki Torimaru label, with red beaded waistband and shoulders, low V back, together with a red satin evening bag (2) The owner of this lot states that the used to wear this gown both ways, back and front.

Condition Report: good condition

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A Thierry Mugler wine velvet cocktail dress, early

Lot 13: A Thierry Mugler wine velvet cocktail dress, early

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Description: A Thierry Mugler wine velvet cocktail dress, early 1990s, labelled 'Thierry Mugler Fete', size 9, with peplum panels to the hips, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in

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An Ossie Clark cut velvet and chiffon evening

Lot 14: An Ossie Clark cut velvet and chiffon evening

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Description: An Ossie Clark cut velvet and chiffon evening gown, late 1980s, with narrow gold and black gold label applied to one shoulder, bias-cut, the plunging neckline with ties, elongated gothic sleeves with pointed cuffs, bust approx 81cm, 32in Provenance: Marie Helvin collection, ex KTA, 8th December, 2009. Marie Helvin first modelled for Ossie in his fashion show on 11th November 1975. She remained a friend and a client until his death in 1996. This gown was a special one-off for Marie and bears the narrow gold label he used in the latter years of his career.

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A Zandra Rhodes printed pink chiffon cocktail

Lot 15: A Zandra Rhodes printed pink chiffon cocktail

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Description: A Zandra Rhodes printed pink chiffon cocktail dress/tunic, mid 1980s, un-labelled, edged with pearl beads and fringes, approx bust 86-92cm, 34-36in, elasticated waist

Condition Report: Good condition, un-labelled, label would have been in the petticoat

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A pair of Courrèges white plastic sunglasses,

Lot 16: A pair of Courrèges white plastic sunglasses,

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Description: A pair of Courrèges white plastic sunglasses, 1964, signed along the arms, the solid lenses with horizontal slits, 15cm, 6in long

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A Pierre Cardin futurist pendant, late 1960s,

Lot 17: A Pierre Cardin futurist pendant, late 1960s,

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Description: A Pierre Cardin futurist pendant, late 1960s, signed to the reverse, shaped rectangular with silvered enamel and four black 'spinners', the pendant 9cm, 3 1/2in long

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Issey Miyake catalogues, comprising: S/S

Lot 18: Issey Miyake catalogues, comprising: S/S

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Description: Issey Miyake catalogues, comprising: S/S 1992,'Splash' S/S 1993, A/W 2001-2, S/S 2002 (4)

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Two Schiaparelli hats, late 1950s-early 1960s,

Lot 19: Two Schiaparelli hats, late 1950s-early 1960s,

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Description: Two Schiaparelli hats, late 1950s-early 1960s, both tall dome-shaped and covered in silk blossom; and a pair of gold leather Schiaparelli sling-back shoes (4)

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A Marshall Field & Sons bubble-gum pink wool dress

Lot 20: A Marshall Field & Sons bubble-gum pink wool dress

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Description: A Marshall Field & Sons bubble-gum pink wool dress suit, circa 1965, labelled, bust 86cm, 34in (2)

Condition Report: Occasional scattering of pinhead sized moth holes to the surface pile of the dress. Hem has been let down but done well, not noticeable from inside. Jacket - very, very, very faint perspiration stains at right underarm lilac silk lining but barely noticeable. Colour is great.

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A beaded brown silk crepe de chine cocktail dress,

Lot 21: A beaded brown silk crepe de chine cocktail dress,

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Description: A beaded brown silk crepe de chine cocktail dress, circa 1922-4, labelled 'Noveauté's de Paris', adorned with gold chain stitch embroidery, glass beads and gun-metal brilliants, bust 102cm, 40in

Condition Report: looks little worn, fabric is strong and fresh, 3 small bleach marks on front of skirt, beading looks perfect

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An ikat silk chapan, circa 1900, woven in shades

Lot 22: An ikat silk chapan, circa 1900, woven in shades

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Description: An ikat silk chapan, circa 1900, woven in shades of pink, blue and yelllow, un-lined but with printed floral cotton edging to the front openings, chest 102cm, 40in

Condition Report: Perspiration stains at underarms, but not immediately noticeable due to pattern and cream ground. 1cm brown stain at chest closure edges, slight thinning at rear neck.

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A Madame Handley Seymour couture gold and ivory

Lot 23: A Madame Handley Seymour couture gold and ivory

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Description: A Madame Handley Seymour couture gold and ivory brocade evening gown, circa 1936, labelled, bias-cut with gold tulle panels at the underarms; together with a sun-ray pleated cloth of silver evening gown, 1930s, bust approx 86cm, 34in (2) Provenance: Myra, Marchioness of Exeter.

Condition Report: • Gold dress - faint brown mark on front of skirt but not immediately noticeable due to gold brocade pattern, the label marked in pencil to the reverse 'Miss Romayne Cecil', slightly soiled hem, 2cm brown stain to rear hem • Silver dress - waist seam needs restitching in place, perspiration stain at right underarm

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A Bill Gibb embroidered ivory wool crepe ensemble,

Lot 24: A Bill Gibb embroidered ivory wool crepe ensemble,

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Description: A Bill Gibb embroidered ivory wool crepe ensemble, circa 1974, labelled and size 10, comprising: halter-neck box-pleated top and matching skirt, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in (2)

Condition Report: slight soiling to bodice near hem, needs dry cleaning, zip is broken, otherwise skirt is good condition

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A Bill Gibb red leather skirt, circa 1975,

Lot 25: A Bill Gibb red leather skirt, circa 1975,

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Description: A Bill Gibb red leather skirt, circa 1975, button-fronted, the large patch pockets stencilled with large bee motifs in gold and blue, waist 61cm, 24in

Condition Report: missing 2 waist buttons, slight soiling to lining, colour and print are good

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An ivory figured silk dress, circa 1820, the hem

Lot 26: An ivory figured silk dress, circa 1820, the hem

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Description: An ivory figured silk dress, circa 1820, the hem adorned with satin petals, silk wrapped baubles and silver wire edged motifs; together with the remains of pink and buff striped silk gown, late 1820s-early 1830s (3)

Condition Report: Ivory dress has been washed - there is still a faint brown watermark on the skirt front. 10cm split in silk just above the padded band on the rear hem. Pink dress has been heavily altered - machine stitched waistband - would have been one piece now made into two, lacking sleeves, lovely fabric but poor condition

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Four Lucile studio fashion sketches, circa

Lot 27: Four Lucile studio fashion sketches, circa

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Description: Four Lucile studio fashion sketches, circa 1916-20, two signed, comprising: fur-trimmed day dress, orientalist hobble dress with train; ink-blue coat and a blouse, 37 by 9.5cm (4)

Condition Report: All good condition with minor imperfections: • One signed twice in pencil and ink, slight discolouration to lower edge (minor) • Blue coat sketch, slight foxing to left border and faint grey line on right • Blouse sketch, faint grey discolouration upper right edge • Green dress sketch, slight discolouration to very edge of card

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Four Lucile studio day and evening-wear designs,

Lot 28: Four Lucile studio day and evening-wear designs,

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Description: Four Lucile studio day and evening-wear designs, circa 1916-17, un-signed, including barrel-shaped layered skirts, frilled crinoline styles, 35 by 19.5cm (4)

Condition Report: • Yellow coat - slight foxing to lower border (minor) • Green and pink cocktail dress - slight crease lower right corner, grey smudges (would probably rub off) towards upper edge of paper • Lilac dress - very faint disclouration to paper lower edge • Grey and pink robe de style - upper and lower edges of paper have grey smudges, lower left side with 2 faint stains

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Lucile Studio sketches for day and dinner-wear,

Lot 29: Lucile Studio sketches for day and dinner-wear,

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Description: Lucile Studio sketches for day and dinner-wear, early 1920s, un-signed, many with pencilled numbers to top corner, 35 by 24.5cm (8)

Condition Report: • Nos 274/275/278 - the upper edges have a glue line where they have been applied to a larger piece of paper • Nos 44, 47A, 71, 293, 306 - the upper 1-2cm have glue marks discolouration where they were originally glued into a notebook or folio. A mount would conceal this. • 293 additionally has a very faint yellowing to bottom right corner • 306, the red coat, is very slightly dog-eared at corners • 47A additionally has faint yellow glue discolouration bottom corners coming through from the back • 44 - right corner with glue spot from reverse showing through and slight creasing at far right edge

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A group of beaded reticules and purses, including

Lot 30: A group of beaded reticules and purses, including

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Description: A group of beaded reticules and purses, including dark green floral example with drawstring fastening; ivory example with floral borders, both 19th century; a primrose floral example 1920s; and 1930s beaded purse with gilt snake mounts, the largest 22cm, 8 1/2in long (4)

Condition Report: 19th century ivory example is lacking frame, otherwise they are good condition

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A Nina Ricci black sequin and satin cocktail

Lot 31: A Nina Ricci black sequin and satin cocktail

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Description: A Nina Ricci black sequin and satin cocktail dress, circa 1970, Haute boutique, Paris labelled, with flounced organza collar, tiered wrap-around effect skirt, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in, waist 66cm, 26in

Condition Report: Label is pinned in place, otherwise good condition

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A Loris Azzaro silver crochet and chain fringed

Lot 32: A Loris Azzaro silver crochet and chain fringed

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Description: A Loris Azzaro silver crochet and chain fringed bodice, circa 1971, bust approx 86cm, 34in

Condition Report: good condition

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A Chanel black velvet and moire taffeta evening

Lot 33: A Chanel black velvet and moire taffeta evening

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Description: A Chanel black velvet and moire taffeta evening gown, late 1980s, 'Chanel Creations' label, with chiffon upper bodice and long sleeves, silk cord trim, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in

Condition Report: Good condition, no problems

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A Thierry Mugler powder-blue crepe 'power' suit,

Lot 34: A Thierry Mugler powder-blue crepe 'power' suit,

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Description: A Thierry Mugler powder-blue crepe 'power' suit, early 1990s, blue label and size 42, the jacket with curved, padded shoulders, gilt metal curls to the neck and waist, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 74cm, 29in

Condition Report: numerous pulled threads - mainly around the shoulder area

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A Marc Bohan for Christian Dior couture gold

Lot 35: A Marc Bohan for Christian Dior couture gold

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Description: A Marc Bohan for Christian Dior couture gold striped cigaline cocktail dress, Autumn-Winter, 1973, labelled and numbered 003425, trimmed with ruffled frills, with matching belt, lined in beige crepe de chine, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 74cm, 29in (2)

Condition Report: Good condition, very fresh appearance, looks little worn. The satin ribbon on top of the belt is faded in places (minor). An internal ribbon which attached to the inner camisole bodice has been replaced with bra elastic (minor)

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An orientalist celluloid mounted evening bag,

Lot 36: An orientalist celluloid mounted evening bag,

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Description: An orientalist celluloid mounted evening bag, circa 1920, the pouch formed from Arts & Crafts style furnishing satin, the mount in green and cream faux ivory with Japanese style profiles, tassels and green faux jade bead trimmings, 53cm, 21in long overall

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A group of evening purses, 1820s-1930s, including

Lot 37: A group of evening purses, 1820s-1930s, including

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Description: A group of evening purses, 1820s-1930s, including a beadwork reticule with gilt frame; a gilt chainmail purse with large filigree butterfly clasp, Whiting & Davis painted metal, petit point, misers purses and others (15)

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An Issey Miyake camel ribbed wool ensemble, circa

Lot 38: An Issey Miyake camel ribbed wool ensemble, circa

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Description: An Issey Miyake camel ribbed wool ensemble, circa 1985, grey and yellow label, size M, the sweater with angular asymmetric neck-hole, low-set sleeves, the skirt formed from a horizontally ribbed vertical tube with ribbed panels and V-shaped alternative opening to one side (2)

Condition Report: good condition, no problems

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A Pierre Balmain couture purple satin shorts

Lot 39: A Pierre Balmain couture purple satin shorts

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Description: A Pierre Balmain couture purple satin shorts ensemble, early 1980s, labelled and numbered 170 716, comprising: long sleeved tunic/dress with side drapes to one hip, the matching shorts with one bejewelled and tasselled hem, detachable hood/capelet, bust 92-97cm, 36-38in, waist 64cm, 25in (3)

Condition Report: Slight fading over right shoulder of tunic, dust smudge on hood - will clean out. Lacking one square rhinestone from border of shorts. Six black beads appear to have been glued rather than sewn down and these have discoloured.

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A group of clothing including bridal wear,

Lot 40: A group of clothing including bridal wear,

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Description: A group of clothing including bridal wear, 1900-1930s, including a tiered tamboured net gown c.1918 with coloured ribbons to waist, ivory embroidered tulips to the hem; an Edwardian skirt, tamboured cream mesh skirt; a bridal bodice c.1900; a grey velvet pelerine c.1900; two 1930s evening coats and a quantity of stockings (qty)

Condition Report: • Grey velvet pelerine fichu - exterior is good but lacking silk lining, ruffled silk rosette edging is beginning to perish • Bridal bodice - good condition, couple of small moth holes, beading at waist is good • Tamboured tulle skirt - good condition, chiffon ruffle (which can be detached) is slightly soiled • C.1916-18 dress - hem edge is slightly frayed, skirt lining has been removed, presumably as it has perished. Very fresh appearance on the exterior, organza camisole underarms have perished lining has perspiration stains at underarms • Yellow damask evening coat - badly damp speckled overall • 1930s evening coat - good condition

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A Gucci leather handbag with bamboo handle, late

Lot 41: A Gucci leather handbag with bamboo handle, late

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Description: A Gucci leather handbag with bamboo handle, late 1960s, maker's gilt stamp to the interior, with classic red and green webbing bands to the closure flap, 22cm, 9in long

Condition Report: good condition, slight rubbing to gilt closure tabs, looks little used

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A John Cavanagh brocaded gold lame sheath, circa

Lot 42: A John Cavanagh brocaded gold lame sheath, circa

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Description: A John Cavanagh brocaded gold lame sheath, circa 1953, labelled, with boned sweet-heart line bodice, woven with palmettes and studded with rhinestones, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in, high waist 69cm, 29in

Condition Report: fabric has tarnished generally, but otherwise good condition. Slight perspiration stains at underarms but not immediately obvious. Perspiration stains on rayon bodice lining between breasts

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A Christian Dior New York black silk faille

Lot 43: A Christian Dior New York black silk faille

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Description: A Christian Dior New York black silk faille redingote, early 1950s, labelled, with single button to fasten, fitted bodice contrasting with the full skirt with padded hips and curved faux pocket over-panels, single box pleat to skirt centre-back, bust 86-92cm, waist 61cm

Condition Report: silk faille is heavily worn over the shoulders due to poor storage but the rest of the coat is good. Wonderful construction.

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An R. Altmann & Co black velvet opera coat,

Lot 44: An R. Altmann & Co black velvet opera coat,

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Description: An R. Altmann & Co black velvet opera coat, American, circa 1930, labelled, of interesting tiered construction with flounces to cuffs and hem, deep ermine collar, lined in grey velvet and satin, chest approx 102cm, 40in

Condition Report: ivory silk lining needs replacing, beautiful construction, exterior is good

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Barbara Cartland's pink soutache ribboned and

Lot 45: Barbara Cartland's pink soutache ribboned and

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Description: Barbara Cartland's pink soutache ribboned and beaded cocktail dress and a Norman Hartnell couture velvet coat, late 1960s, the sleeveless dress encrusted with beads, bust 102cm, 40in, waist 81cm, 32in (2) Provenance: auction of the Barbara Cartland collection, Sotheby's lot 296, 18.12.01.

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Two beaded muslin flapper dresses, French, late

Lot 46: Two beaded muslin flapper dresses, French, late

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Description: Two beaded muslin flapper dresses, French, late 1920s, one pink covered in a shimmer of pearlised, silver and pink bugle beads with bands of flowerheads, bust 92cm, 36in; the other blue with gold and clear bugle beading, with added chiffon panel and fringing added in the early 30s to lengthen, bust 86cm, 34in (2)

Condition Report: Pink dress is good condition, lacking a patch of beads on the bodice, skirt hem and a few edging beads at neck; blue dress is badly faded along fold lines and has perspiration stains at underarms

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Three black cocktail gowns and a bodice, circa

Lot 47: Three black cocktail gowns and a bodice, circa

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Description: Three black cocktail gowns and a bodice, circa 1918-20, variously adorned with beads, embroidery or lace, average bust size 102cm, 40in; together with two Syrian abbas woven in blue or green with gold contrasts, 1930s; a poor condition apricot chiffon dress c.1925, two brocaded satin tabards 1920s, assorted bags, hats and vintage fabrics (qty) Provenance: Ashburnham Place, Sussex

Condition Report: • Black silk dress with gold lace trim - lace has wear • 2 x tabards of mid 20s brocade- good condition • Early 20s black silk dress with jet beaded girdle and fringes - good condition, lace capelet sleeves added in 30s • Apricot dress - torn at underarms, rust spots down back • Early 20s black silk dress - jet medallions at waist, one missing, one detached, lace sleeves added in 30s, good condition • Blue Abba - slightly faded, hard to see as fabric is shot with ivory, small scuffs to skirt areas • Green Abba - two small orange stains on back - looks like cosmetic foundation - would probably clean out, otherwise very fresh appearance • Black chiffon top - brown stains on front, lacking some sequins • Black chiffon dress with Honiton trim - faint stains down front, shortened at the waist • Hats are a bit dusty and crushed • Beaded crepe de chine dress panel - silk is starting to split

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A general group of late Victorian and Edwardian

Lot 48: A general group of late Victorian and Edwardian

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Description: A general group of late Victorian and Edwardian clothing, including a Grands Magasins du Louvre black wool dolman cape adorned with ostrich plumes and gold braid, labelled and numbered 5719, a black velvet visite edged with heavy fringing; a velvet jacket with ivory satin lace covered lapels; assorted skirts, bodices, underwear, gloves and a fancy dress outfit (qty)

Condition Report: • Au Louvre dolman - good condition, ostrich feathers slightly browned with age, couple of tiny moth holes above rear hem, quilted silk lining is good. • Black velvet dolman - silk passementerie has slightly browned with age, there was probably trimming on the front panels which has been removed, 5 toggles missing from hem fringes • Black velvet jacket with lace covered lapels - good condition • Black velvet ribbon and lace skirt - overskirt, good condition, ivory taffeta lining is perishing • Cream tulle blouse - faint perspiration stains at underarms • Ivory crepe skirt - lacking waistband, several small holes • Ivory and pink fancy dress - couple of brown spots on chemical lace collar • Underwear in good condition

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An embroidered farmer's smock, circa 1900, made in

Lot 49: An embroidered farmer's smock, circa 1900, made in

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Description: An embroidered farmer's smock, circa 1900, made in Sussex, the delicately worked bands worked in tan cotton, shortened; together with an ivory silk blouse with smocked detailing, 1920s; and a scarlet and white embroidered smock altered into a blouse (3) Provenance: Ashburnham Place

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Three pairs of satin slippers, 1830s, straights,

Lot 50: Three pairs of satin slippers, 1830s, straights,

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Description: Three pairs of satin slippers, 1830s, straights, the rose-pink pair and one of the ivory pairs bearing Melnotte of Paris and London trade labels, one sole indistinctly marked with the owner's name 'Miss C Bailly'; together with a striped jacquard weave triangular shawl 1830s (7) Provenance: Ashburnham Place.

Condition Report: Good condition

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