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Passion for Fashion

by Kerry Taylor Auctions


194 lots with images

December 3, 2013

Live Auction

249-253 Long Lane

London, SE1 4PR United Kingdom

Phone: +44 (0)20 8676 4600

Fax: +44 (0)20 3137 0112

Email: info@kerrytaylorauctions.com

194 Lots
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An Hermès black leather collier de chien belt,

Lot 1: An Hermès black leather collier de chien belt,

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Description: An Hermès black leather collier de chien belt, 1980s, engraved with maker to gilt hardware, with elephant pendant to one loop, max waist approx 82cm, 32in

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An Hermès brown leather Birkin bag, 1999, blind

Lot 2: An Hermès brown leather Birkin bag, 1999, blind

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Description: An Hermès brown leather Birkin bag, 1999, blind stamp C, with gold plated hardware, key fob and padlock, 35cm, 13 3/4in

Condition Report: Good condition. Scattering of pen marks to inside of inner pocket, slight indentations to interior leather commensurate with light use. Exterior is very fresh, it has recently been re-conditioned

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A Chanel 2.55 quilted leather shoulder bag,

Lot 3: A Chanel 2.55 quilted leather shoulder bag,

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Description: A Chanel 2.55 quilted leather shoulder bag, probably 1990s, with plastic card no 6421063, lined in wine leather, chain strap threaded with leather, 25 1/2cm, 10in long with cotton cover and box (3)

Condition Report: Good condition, bag has been used but lightly. Slight scuffing on exterior. Light scuffing generally to the interior, slight soiling along zip.

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An Hermès bleu jean clemence leather Birkin bag,

Lot 4: An Hermès bleu jean clemence leather Birkin bag,

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Description: An Hermès bleu jean clemence leather Birkin bag, 2000, blind stamp D, with gold plated hardware, keyfob and padlock, 40cm, 16in

Condition Report: good condition, slight soiling to inside of inner pockets. Very fresh exterior

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A Be@rbrick Chanel doll, 2006, limited edition no

Lot 5: A Be@rbrick Chanel doll, 2006, limited edition no

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Description: A Be@rbrick Chanel doll, 2006, limited edition no 335 of 1000, designed in collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld, the large articulated doll with lithographed sun-glasses, camelia to one ear and classic Chanel suit, 71cm, 28in high These dolls were never sold, but used as Chanel store window displays and as gifts to fashion editors and VIP clients.

Condition Report: slight scuffing to rear of head

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A Chanel gilt metal gold bullion minaudiere,

Lot 6: A Chanel gilt metal gold bullion minaudiere,

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Description: A Chanel gilt metal gold bullion minaudiere, modern, engraved with CC logo, 31 Rue Cambon address, and registration numbers, lined in gold leather, 15cm, 6in long

Condition Report: some scuffing to exterior, interior is good

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A Chanel black faille and white enamelled evening

Lot 7: A Chanel black faille and white enamelled evening

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Description: A Chanel black faille and white enamelled evening purse, modern, with internal registration number, the chequered exterior outlined in rhinestones, lined in black suede, with wrist loop, 12 1/2cm, 5in wide

Condition Report: good condition, looks unused

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An Hermès vert foncé togo leather Birkin bag,

Lot 8: An Hermès vert foncé togo leather Birkin bag,

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Description: An Hermès vert foncé togo leather Birkin bag, 1998, blind stamp B, with gold plated hardware, key fob and padlock, 35cm, 13 3/4in

Condition Report: good condition, very minor scuffing to gilt hardware, very fresh inside and out

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An Hermès black togo leather Birkin bag, 1996,

Lot 9: An Hermès black togo leather Birkin bag, 1996,

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Description: An Hermès black togo leather Birkin bag, 1996, blind stamp Z, with gold plated hardware, key fob and padlock, 40cm, 15 3/4in

Condition Report: Very slight scuffing to front panel and base, would polish out on upper surface. Interior is very fresh- looks unused. Very slight scratching to lock and feet. Plating is good overall.

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Two belts, comprising: brown hide Chanel example

Lot 10: Two belts, comprising: brown hide Chanel example

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Description: Two belts, comprising: brown hide Chanel example with burnished brass buckle and multiple chains, 71cm, 28in; together with a Versace black leather belt with Medusa head buckle, 77cm, 30in (2)

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A Louis Vuitton hard-sided suitcase, with

Lot 11: A Louis Vuitton hard-sided suitcase, with

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Description: A Louis Vuitton hard-sided suitcase, with traditional LV monogram canvas, leather trim, brass lock with two keys, complete with foul weather cover, 37 by 50 by 18cm

Condition Report: good condition, looks un-used

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An Hermès gris tourterelle clemence leather haut à

Lot 12: An Hermès gris tourterelle clemence leather haut à

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Description: An Hermès gris tourterelle clemence leather haut à courroies overnight bag, 2000, blind stamp D, with silver palladium hardware, key fob and padlock, 50cm, 19 1/2in

Condition Report: slight scuffing on base

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An Hermès Constance black crocodile handbag, 1974

Lot 13: An Hermès Constance black crocodile handbag, 1974

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Description: An Hermès Constance black crocodile handbag, 1974, crocodylus porosus, with gilt metal H-lifter clasp, stamped with maker's name to the interior, adjustable shoulder strap, 23cm, 9in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU.

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A Line Vautrin cast gilt metal 'Forest' belt,

Lot 14: A Line Vautrin cast gilt metal 'Forest' belt,

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Description: A Line Vautrin cast gilt metal 'Forest' belt, circa 1945, signed to the clasp, with cornucopia buckle, the links formed from stylised leaves, 69cm, 27in long Literature: 'Line Vautrin, Poesie in Metall', Museum fu¨r Kunst und Gewerbe, Hamburg, 2003, pp 139 and 106 for an identical belt

Condition Report: good condition, no problems

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A Scemama for Yves Saint Laurent parure, 1970,

Lot 15: A Scemama for Yves Saint Laurent parure, 1970,

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Description: A Scemama for Yves Saint Laurent parure, 1970, signed YSL, comprising gilt rope twist daisy shaped pendant, ear-rings and matching belt with faux hardstone centres (4)

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An Hermès black box calf leather Birkin, 1999,

Lot 16: An Hermès black box calf leather Birkin, 1999,

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Description: An Hermès black box calf leather Birkin, 1999, blind stamp C, with silver palladium hardware, padlock and key fob, 35cm, 13 3/4in

Condition Report: Very fresh- looks hardly used. Very slight rubbing to front panel and base- would polish out. Silver plating is worn on edge of feet. Interior is very fresh. Plating is good overall.

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An Hermès white whaleskin Constance handbag

Lot 17: An Hermès white whaleskin Constance handbag

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Description: An Hermès white whaleskin Constance handbag, circa 1970, delphinapterus leucas, with gilt H lifter-clasp, maker's stamp to the interior, adjustable shoulder strap, 23cm, 9in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU.

Condition Report: Exterior is good, biro marks to soft leather interior lining, soiling, split in the shoulder strap

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An Hermès black toga leather Birkin, 2000, blind

Lot 18: An Hermès black toga leather Birkin, 2000, blind

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Description: An Hermès black toga leather Birkin, 2000, blind stamp D, with gilt hardware, padlock, fob with keys and original receipt, 40cm, 15 3/4in long, with storage case and box (3)

Condition Report: Good condition, looks little used, box lid has split at one corner. Gilt plating is good, slight scratching to feet. Interior is good- slightly dusty.

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A Louis Vuitton hard-sided suitcase, with

Lot 19: A Louis Vuitton hard-sided suitcase, with

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Description: A Louis Vuitton hard-sided suitcase, with traditional LV monogram canvas, leather trim, brass lock with two keys, complete with foul weather cover, 42 by 60 by 18cm

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An Hermès brown crocodile malette, probably 1930s,

Lot 20: An Hermès brown crocodile malette, probably 1930s,

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Description: An Hermès brown crocodile malette, probably 1930s, the lock signed and stamped with Faubourg address to the interior, with sliding catches to the upper frame, gold velvet lined jewellery compartment to the base, 27cm, 10in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU.

Condition Report: Handle in need of repair, corners have been re-covered in crocodile. Leather is worn in creases of leather at the sides, scuffed interior of upper compartment, replaced crocodile pull-tab. Brass stud feet are not original

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An Hermès black box calf leather Kelly bag, 1994,

Lot 21: An Hermès black box calf leather Kelly bag, 1994,

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Description: An Hermès black box calf leather Kelly bag, 1994, blind stamp X, with gilt hardware, padlock fob and keys, with detachable shoulder strap, 36cm, 14in long

Condition Report: Slight surface scratches- would polish out. Slight scuffing to lower corners, very good interior, shows signs of light use.

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A group of Christian Dior luggage and accessories,

Lot 21A: A group of Christian Dior luggage and accessories,

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Description: A group of Christian Dior luggage and accessories, circa 1970, all of CD monogrammed canvas, comprising: two suitcases, the larger 60 by 36cm; overnight bag; holdall; satchel; pochette; travel document holder; purse; pair of slippers and two slipper pockets (12)

Condition Report: good condition, satchell strap needs re-attaching on one side

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An Yves Saint Laurent heart-pendant

Lot 22: An Yves Saint Laurent heart-pendant

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Description: An Yves Saint Laurent heart-pendant necklace/brooch, Autumn-Winter, 1996-7, signed to the reverse, of smoke-grey tinted and red brilliant cut stones, baroque pearl beads, with cabochon droplet, brooch pin to the reverse, the white metal chain inset with red stones, the chain 44cm long

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A Scemama for Yves Saint Laurent couture

Lot 23: A Scemama for Yves Saint Laurent couture

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Description: A Scemama for Yves Saint Laurent couture collection jewelled belt, 1972, signed YSL, the chain links studded with blister 'pearls' and green stones, with large circular medallion inset with red, green and topaz 'gems', 71cm, 28in This belt worn as a choker is photographed in L'Officiel, no 594 p.331.

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An Hermès black lizard handbag, late 1960s,

Lot 24: An Hermès black lizard handbag, late 1960s,

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Description: An Hermès black lizard handbag, late 1960s, varanus salvator, stamped to the interior 'Hermès Paris', with gilt baton shaped clasp and fixings, 22cm, 8in long in Hermes box (2) Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU.

Condition Report: good condition, barely used, very soft lining leather has a few slight indentations. Box is a bit bashed

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An Yves Saint Laurent necklace, 1994, signed,

Lot 25: An Yves Saint Laurent necklace, 1994, signed,

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Description: An Yves Saint Laurent necklace, 1994, signed, composed of black beads and marquetry plaques, 35cm, 14in long Literature: 'L'Officiel', no 789 1994

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A Pierre Cardin gilt metal necklace, late

Lot 26: A Pierre Cardin gilt metal necklace, late

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Description: A Pierre Cardin gilt metal necklace, late 1960s-early 1970s, with Cardin logo tag to closure, the chunky barbaric pendant formed from five cast gilt metal plaques, adjustable chain, main pendant element is 20cm, 8in

Condition Report: Good condition, no problems.

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An Hermès black box-calf leather miniature Kelly

Lot 27: An Hermès black box-calf leather miniature Kelly

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Description: An Hermès black box-calf leather miniature Kelly bag, 1997, with detachable shoulder-strap, 20cm, 8in long, with storage bag (2)

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A René Bouet Willaumez fashion illustration of a

Lot 28: A René Bouet Willaumez fashion illustration of a

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Description: A René Bouet Willaumez fashion illustration of a Schiaparelli nightdress, 1951, pencil, pink watercolour washes on white artist's board, signed to lower corner, 39 by 33cm, together with a sketch of a Schiaparelli petticoat trimmed with lace, 42 by 28cm (2) Provenance: Sale of the artist's studio, Passion for Fashion, Sotheby's 25th November, 1998 lot 312. The petticoat image was published in American Vogue, November 1st, 1951 p.133.

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Elliot Hodgkin fashion sketches, circa 1928-9,

Lot 29: Elliot Hodgkin fashion sketches, circa 1928-9,

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Description: Elliot Hodgkin fashion sketches, circa 1928-9, each signed in the margin, gouache on artist's board, day and evening wear ensembles, each approx 35 by 25cm (16)

Condition Report: mixed condition

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British Vogue, 1934-35, comprising: 1934, Jan 10;

Lot 30: British Vogue, 1934-35, comprising: 1934, Jan 10;

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Description: British Vogue, 1934-35, comprising: 1934, Jan 10; Feb 7, 21; May 2; June 27; July 11, 25; Aug 8, 22; Sept 5, 19; Oct 3, 17; and 1935: Jan 9; July 24; Sept 4, 18; Oct 2, 16; Nov 13, 27 (21)

Condition Report: all good condition and complete with covers and internally. 5 with punch holes in top left corner

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Elliot Hodgkin fashion sketches, circa 1928-9,

Lot 31: Elliot Hodgkin fashion sketches, circa 1928-9,

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Description: Elliot Hodgkin fashion sketches, circa 1928-9, each signed in the margin, gouache on artist's board, day and evening wear ensembles, each approx 35 by 25cm (16)

Condition Report: Many with foxing, one with bad stains.

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British Vogue, 1936, comprising: Jan 8, 22; Feb 5,

Lot 32: British Vogue, 1936, comprising: Jan 8, 22; Feb 5,

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Description: British Vogue, 1936, comprising: Jan 8, 22; Feb 5, 19 and supplement; Mar 4, 18; April 29; July 8, 22; Aug 5, 19 and supplement; Sept 2, 16, 30; Oct 14 and supplement; Oct 28; Nov 11; Dec 9, 23 (22)

Condition Report: all good condition and complete with covers and internally. 11 with punch holes in top left corner. March 18; April 29 and Oct 14 - each have one page with small tear to edge

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A René Bouet Willaumez fashion illustration of a

Lot 33: A René Bouet Willaumez fashion illustration of a

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Description: A René Bouet Willaumez fashion illustration of a Schiaparelli petticoat, 1951, pencil, pink watercolour washes on white artist's board, depicting a ruffled petticoat, 42 by 28cm; together with a girl with a dove in acid green and black gouache, 34 1/2 by 29cm (2) Provenance: Sale of the artist's studio, Passion for Fashion, Sotheby's 25th November, 1998 lot 311. The petticoat image was published in American Vogue, November 1st, 1951 p.133.

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British Vogue, 1937, comprising: Jan 6, 20; Feb

Lot 34: British Vogue, 1937, comprising: Jan 6, 20; Feb

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Description: British Vogue, 1937, comprising: Jan 6, 20; Feb 3,17 and supplement, 27; Mar 3, 17, 31; April 14 and supplement, 28 (Coronation number); May 10, 26; June 9, 23; July 7, 21; Aug 4, 18 and supplement; Sept 1, 15, 29; Oct 13 and supplement, 27; Nov 10, 24; Dec 8, 22 (31)

Condition Report: all good condition and complete with covers and internally. 13 with punch holes in top left corner

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British Vogue 1938, comprising: Jan 5, 19; Feb 2,

Lot 35: British Vogue 1938, comprising: Jan 5, 19; Feb 2,

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Description: British Vogue 1938, comprising: Jan 5, 19; Feb 2, 16 and supplement; Mar 2, 16, 30; Apr 13 and supplement, 27; May 11, 25; June 8, 22; July 6, 20; Aug 3, 24 and supplement; Sept 7, 21; Oct 5 and supplement, 19; Nov 2, 16, 30; Dec 14, 28 (30)

Condition Report: all good condition and complete with covers and internally. 13 with punch holes in top left corner

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British Vogue 1939-40, 1939 comprising: Jan 11,

Lot 36: British Vogue 1939-40, 1939 comprising: Jan 11,

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Description: British Vogue 1939-40, 1939 comprising: Jan 11, 25; Feb 8, 22 and supplement; Mar 8, 22; Apr 5, 19 and supplement; May 3, 17, 31; June 14, 28; July 12, 26; Aug 9, 23 and supplement; Sept 6, 20; November and December; 1940 comprising January-September single issues per month inclusive (33)

Condition Report: all good condition and complete with covers and internally. 11 with punch holes in top left corner

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A rare pair of starched calico sleeve puffers,

Lot 37: A rare pair of starched calico sleeve puffers,

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Description: A rare pair of starched calico sleeve puffers, 1820s, approx 28cm, 11in diam (2)

Condition Report: Good condition. Small hole in one.

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A rare snuff-brown silk boy's coat, circa 1770,

Lot 38: A rare snuff-brown silk boy's coat, circa 1770,

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Description: A rare snuff-brown silk boy's coat, circa 1770, with seven self-covered functional buttons, lined in the same fabric, no collar, full skirts with pockets within the sword-slits, adorned with three buttons, chest 46cm, 18in

Condition Report: Although the proportions of this coat make one think of a doll - there are signs that the coat has been actively worn. There is seam pull and darned repairs to centre-back seam, rear left seam at underarm. Slight fraying to right shoulder. The edge of the right cuff is frayed and worn. The sleeves are lined in linen. The coat is soiled generally; there are stains down the front panels and a black (mud?) mark on the hem of the rear skirt. Another layer of silk has been added to reinforce and strengthen the button panel - but this seems to have been done at the time that the coat was originally made.

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A rare Ernest Raudnitz chiné 18th century inspired

Lot 39: A rare Ernest Raudnitz chiné 18th century inspired

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Description: A rare Ernest Raudnitz chiné 18th century inspired taffeta ball gown, circa 1893, stamped in gold to the waist-stay 'Ernest Raudnitz, 23 Rue Louis le Grand, Paris', the separate bodice with wide square neckline, ruffled, pleated sleeves, pink chiffon edging and frills, and plastron, adorned with absinthe-green silk ribbons and a silk rosebud, the interior with baleen boning, ivory taffeta lining; the matching skirt with pink chiffon insertion to centre front edged with ruffles of taffeta and posy of silk flowers and ribbons, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2)

Condition Report: taffeta is good, colourful and strong but the pink chiffon areas are beginning to split and wear, there is a large vertical split in the pink chiffon to the centre-front skirt panel. The interior of the dress is good conditiion. There are brown glue stains to the pink chiffon and green ribbon where the posy on the skirt has been attached. The narrow silk edging at the waist has worn. I suspect that stained underarm areas have been cut out and the sleeves re-inserted.

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A rare pair of printed and painted satin garters,

Lot 40: A rare pair of printed and painted satin garters,

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Description: A rare pair of printed and painted satin garters, 1820s, with scenes of boys and girls at play with dogs, a girl feeding chickens, padded and edged in blue chenille, elasticated section and embossed metal clasps, together with the remains of a hand-written note, 'White satin garters, 1826' (3)

Condition Report: lacking embossed metal hook on one of the garters, otherwise they are complete. Piece of gauze fixing the clasp on the other is worn. Good condition

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A rare pair of wig bellows bearing the cypher of

Lot 41: A rare pair of wig bellows bearing the cypher of

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Description: A rare pair of wig bellows bearing the cypher of King George III, circa 1775, of mahogany with leather sides and ivory tip, painted in gold with a kingly crown and GR III, 16cm, 6 1/4in long. Provenance: from a descendant of the House of Bourbon. Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU.

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A fine old-rose silk walking dress, 1820s, with

Lot 42: A fine old-rose silk walking dress, 1820s, with

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Description: A fine old-rose silk walking dress, 1820s, with piped tab adornments to the shoulders and lower sleeves, padded hem, integral silk waistband at the high waist from which fan-shaped pleats spread over the bodice, fastened to the back by hooks and eyes

Condition Report: Lacking a few hooks from the back, un-altered good condition. Ivory silk lining frayed at cuffs and splits in bodice lining, fraying to hem edge in mainly two places. Small split to skirt at centre back and very faint area of staining at seat area- but hard to see. Yellow discolouration along rear centre back skirt and where sleeves have been folded- not immediately obvious. Tiny little darn at cuff.

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A brown taffeta dress, circa 1835, with gigot

Lot 43: A brown taffeta dress, circa 1835, with gigot

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Description: A brown taffeta dress, circa 1835, with gigot sleeves, notched wide collar, bust 92cm, 35in

Condition Report: Buttons have been added to rear closure to fasten in the late 19th century, perspiration stains at underarms, 4cm darned repair at right underarm, lined in brown chintz. Hem has been shortened. Pocket slits to hips- one partially sewn up. Skirt was also shortened at some point by making a horizontal pleat which has since been reversed. 2cm repair at back hem edge and a few small pinhead sized holes at rear hem, slight soiling to rear skirt (looks like bird droppings). Rear skirt opening has been deepened by 23cm. Wear to silk at centre back waist closure. Only one original button. Wear to cotton lining at underarms. Silk is split in two places on right shoulder (concealed below collar).

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A rare chamois leather lady's riding jacket or

Lot 44: A rare chamois leather lady's riding jacket or

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Description: A rare chamois leather lady's riding jacket or under-jacket, 1890s, lined in pale blue silk with brown-stained mother of pearl buttons, bust 86cm, 34in

Condition Report: slight moth damage to front waist but only on upper surface. No holes. Soiling to cuffs. Slightly soiled appearance generally. Colour is good. Slight soiling to lining at neck and a few stains to lining. Cuffs need re-stitching at edges.

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The ivory and pale blue silk taffeta bridal gown

Lot 45: The ivory and pale blue silk taffeta bridal gown

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Description: The ivory and pale blue silk taffeta bridal gown and accessories worn by Henrietta Cordery for her wedding on June 27th, 1857, comprising: day bodice with glass buttons coiled with metal snakes, short sleeved evening bodice trimmed with pale blue ribbon ruffles and fringes, similarly trimmed over-skirt and plain silk underskirt, matching satin pumps with palest blue rosettes; a wax bridal wreath, a later silk floral wreath and a dried floral bridesmaid posy (qty) Henrietta Cordery married Thomas William Jex-Blake, an eminent Anglican clergyman and educationalist, in 1857. They had two sons and nine daughters. Although a snake motif might seem an unusual adornment for a bridal gown, in the 19th century it was thought to symbolise wisdom and eternity. Prince Albert presented Queen Victoria with an emerald inset snake ring at their engagement which further fuelled the craze.

Condition Report: Plain skirt: front- numerous brown stains, the largest is approx 5x4cm. Back- clean and fresh in appearance, large faint watermark to hem area on left side- but almost invisible. Un-altered. Good. Overskirt: upper two oval tulle panels are torn, others are good. Small brown stain on right side, larger faint brown stain 4x9cm on left hip area. 3 pronounced brown stains on rear panels and smaller brown rust spots. Unaltered. Day bodice: Has 19th century alterations to widen at each side seam- but well done. Front of bodice- 3 small faint brown stains, otherwise fresh. Slight soiling to left sleeve, back of bodice looks pristine. Evening bodice: bad perspiration stains at underarms inside and out, tulle is worn at underarm. Has 19th century alteration to slightly let out seams over bust. Front- scattering of small brown rust stains, approx. 5. Numerous small brown stains to rear waist. Shoes- good condition. Elastic ribbon ties have perished. Headress- good condition. Dried flower bouquet- a bit crushed in appearance.

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A fine broderie anglaise summer gown, circa

Lot 46: A fine broderie anglaise summer gown, circa

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Description: A fine broderie anglaise summer gown, circa 1815-20, the empire-line bodice, skirt hem and sleeve sides trimmed and inset with cutwork lace, cotton tassels and tufts; together with a whitework sprigged cotton empire line skirt (2)

Condition Report: Dress: Un-altered, good condition. Faint yellowing in the cotton in places. Fabulous decoration. Cluster of rust spots on front of skirt, small light brown stain on front bodice. A couple of faint stains to both cuffs (minor). Sprigged muslin skirt: covered in small yellow damp spots, one small hole to front of hem.

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A Redfern primrose-yellow melton wool coat, circa

Lot 47: A Redfern primrose-yellow melton wool coat, circa

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Description: A Redfern primrose-yellow melton wool coat, circa 1890, the black silk lining bearing the remains of a printed gold 'Redfern 242 Rue de Rivoli' label, with integral capelet, couched gold thread embroidered black faille collar, edged in black ostrich plumes, fastened to the front by hooks and eyes, chest 81cm, 32in

Condition Report: satin lining is splitting at neck edge, couple of splits in the right breast area, slight fading to the yellow areas

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A Charles Frederick Worth brocaded satin Russian

Lot 48: A Charles Frederick Worth brocaded satin Russian

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Description: A Charles Frederick Worth brocaded satin Russian court dress, circa 1890, un-labelled, the satin woven with gold silk roses, the front plastron and skirt panels entirely covered with floss silk and pearl beaded roses, the bodice with hanging sleeves edged in silver braid, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in; together with three non-related Russian embroidered panels (qty) Provenance: Sophie Benckendorff (nee Shuvalov) c.1860-1925. The Shuvalov family were well-established courtiers over many centuries. The Benckendorff family were originally Baltic Germans who moved to Russia at the invitation of Peter the Great in the early 18th century. They established close links with the Imperial family, and successive generations were given senior positions in the court or public service for over a hundred years. Count Alexander Benckendorff, was the last Imperial Ambassador in London from 1904-1916. Ambassador Benckendorff's brother, Count Paul, was a Chamberlain at the court and ended up as one of the chief courtiers and advisers to the last Tsar, with whom he stayed loyally until the deposed Tsar and his wife were sent from St Petersburg to their execution in the Urals. Count Paul wrote an important memoir entitled 'Last Days at Tsarskoe Selo', which was his diary of the last tragic months of the Imperial family's life.

Condition Report: Heavily altered to wear as a bridal gown in 1971 when the zips were inserted and the label removed and lost. Skirt: darts let out at front hips to widen. Taffeta lining has been removed except for rear hem area. The ruffled finish is shattering. A panel may have been removed from the rear skirt as it seems rather slim fitting/narrow. Exterior of skirt back: repair to seam at base of zip, slightly grimey appearance but no major stains. Organza hem ruffle is very grey/soiled. Front of skirt: generally soiled appearance. Five long brown droplet stains. The appliquéd pearl beaded embroidery is largely intact but lacking patches in places, especially near the waist. Bodice: Lacking original waistband which would have incorporated the label. Zip has been inserted centre back. Bad perspiration stains and splits at underarms. Relined and re-boned. Sleeves have been re-set-bodice has been re-made. Pearl beading on bodice front is generally good, worn at very tip. Organza ruffle edging on hanging sleeves is worn. One hanging sleeve has faint stains on lining. Lace is torn over both shoulders. Silver embroidered headdress panel- braid edging is worn on lower edge. Black cotton lining has moth casings. Gold embroidered headband-band- printed cotton lining is grease stained, otherwise good condition . Of Ryazan (Tambov ) origin. Circular panel- lacking two of the medallions, from the Arkhangelsk region.

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An opulent be-jewelled orientalist cloth of silver

Lot 49: An opulent be-jewelled orientalist cloth of silver

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Description: An opulent be-jewelled orientalist cloth of silver evening gown, probably Callot Soeurs, 1907 and altered in the 1920s, columnar with gold embroidered filet lace over-dress studded with cabochon turquoise stones and pearls, the hem with deep band of Egyptian papyrus blooms, bust 102cm, 40in For a similar highly embellished robe see 'Paris Haute Couture' catalogue, Palais Galliera, no 29 for a 1907 model 'Carthage'.

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