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Couture, Vintage Clothing and Jewelry Auction

by Charles A. Whitaker Auction Co.


428 lots with images

November 2, 2013

Live Auction

Route 202 and Sugan Road

New Hope, PA, 18938 USA

Phone: 215.817.4600

Fax: 215.844.8283

Email: caw@whitakerauction.com

428 Lots
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PAUL et VIRGINIE FIGURAL EMBROIDERED BRACES with SLAVERY THEME, c. 1800.

Lot 364: PAUL et VIRGINIE FIGURAL EMBROIDERED BRACES with SLAVERY THEME, c. 1800.

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Description: Ivory silk satin with colorful silk embroidery of scenes from the novel by Bernardin de Saint Pierre, first published in 1787, including a master beating a slave. 23 x 2 3/8. (Unfinished at one end) excellent.

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BRITISH GENT'S TALL HAT, 18th C.

Lot 365: BRITISH GENT'S TALL HAT, 18th C.

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Description: Black sheared beaver with flat top truncated conical crown, black grosgrain ribbon band and brim binding, silk lining. 13 x 14 1/2 x 9 1/2 high. (Fur losses on brim, several tears to silk underbrim, worn at edge of crown) good. MMA.

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SILK CALASH and DRAWN BONNETS, 18th  and 19th C.

Lot 366: SILK CALASH and DRAWN BONNETS, 18th and 19th C.

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Description: Brown brocade calash having delicate stylized foliate pattern, lined in pink cotton to the fifth rib, back lined in muslin, collapsed 13 x 14 with 4 inch bavolet, (lining soiled, few small holes in back and by one rib, ties torn). 1860's blue-grey taffeta drawn bonnet, trimmed with pink ribbon and cloth flower, black lace over wired net bavolet, cream silk lining, 7 1/2 x 11, (worn along brim, lining partially unstitched, lace torn). Good. PMA.

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TWO BONE or HORN ETUIS, 19th C.

Lot 367: TWO BONE or HORN ETUIS, 19th C.

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Description: One scrimshaw cylinder having reindeer and star with leather needle case on rope cord with two rings, horn 3 1/8, overall 10 inches. One hinged case with gold inlay, velvet interior and mirrored inside lid, 3 1/4 inches. Together with a bone sewing needle, spool and bobbin with vise (bobbin base broken). Fair-excellent.

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FRENCH SHOP BELL, 19th C.

Lot 368: FRENCH SHOP BELL, 19th C.

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Description: Bronze color metal mounted with mother of pearl on alabaster base, 4 x 5 inches. Together with assorted hat pins, pin cushion and Kewpie wedding cake topper. Excellent.

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MESH PURSE with AMETHYSTS and CHATELAINE, 1890's.

Lot 369: MESH PURSE with AMETHYSTS and CHATELAINE, 1890's.

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Description: Silver metal with oval hinged filigree top having kiss clasp and applied crown with faceted amethyst sets, chain handle with fleur-de-lis belt clip. 4 1/2 x 10. (Back of clip detached, minor loss to ball fringe) very good.

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VICTORIAN GILT FILIGREE TUSSY MUSSY.

Lot 370: VICTORIAN GILT FILIGREE TUSSY MUSSY.

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Description: Set with four faceted red stones and mother of pearl. L-6 inches. (Two of four stones missing, ring finial broken at tip) fair.

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FRENCH BROCADE CHILD'S SHOES, 18th C.

Lot 371: FRENCH BROCADE CHILD'S SHOES, 18th C.

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Description: Blue and tan floral silk with wool trim, bow on vamp with oval buckle, rope sole and linen lining. 7 1/2 x 2 3/4. (Silk worn) overall good. FIT.

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LOT of LADIES' FOOTWEAR, 1860's and 1870's.

Lot 372: LOT of LADIES' FOOTWEAR, 1860's and 1870's.

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Description: Two pair side lacing boots, one black, one cream (both with some wear at the toe). White kid leather wedding slippers with self rosette and bow. Black silk slippers with ankle ties, edged in shirred ribbon having pink and green rosebuds at vamp. Good-exce

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BEADED and EMBROIDERED HIGH LACING BOOTS, c. 1900.

Lot 373: BEADED and EMBROIDERED HIGH LACING BOOTS, c. 1900.

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Description: Cream silk satin with allover satin stitch floral and crystal beaded vines, ogee curved top, embroidered Louis heel, L- 9 1/2, H-12. Suspended in shadowbox frame with a folding fan having carved sticks and painted silk and lace leaf, and a necklace of pearls. Framed size 27 x 30 3/4 x 3. Excellent. NOTE: BUYER RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL SHIPPING ARRANGEMENTS, unless removed from frame.

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WOOL PLAID DAY DRESS, c. 1869.

Lot 374: WOOL PLAID DAY DRESS, c. 1869.

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Description: 1-piece having lace collar and trim to long slightly flaring sleeve, deep hem ruffle, faux self buttons over hook & eye closure, self belt with back streamers, bodice lined in muslin. B-30, W-22, L-52. (Very minor spots and moth damage to sleeve, tiny hole in hem ruffle) very good.

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VICTORIAN FRINGED WOOL JACKET.

Lot 375: VICTORIAN FRINGED WOOL JACKET.

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Description: Bone flannel with cuffed balloon sleeve, round collar with knotted silk fringe and tassels, trimmed in cream lace, double scalloped hem with small tassels, silk lining. B-40, L-28. (Minor soiling) excellent.

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THREE FANCY VICTORIAN CAPES.

Lot 376: THREE FANCY VICTORIAN CAPES.

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Description: Two velvet heavily decorated with cording, beadwork and tassels: One blue with lace. One printed burgundy and rose (some bead loss). One grey-green with cream wool having scrolling metallic gold embroidery (lining torn). L-21-27. Good-excellent.

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GENT'S METALLIC EMBROIDERED WAISTCOAT, 18th C.

Lot 377: GENT'S METALLIC EMBROIDERED WAISTCOAT, 18th C.

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Description: Cream silk satin with stand collar and pocket flaps over faux buttons, decorated with gold thread and sequins, satin back with ties, satin lining. Ch-40, L-26. Excellent.

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PLAID SILK PET-EN-LAIR JACKET, 18th C.

Lot 378: PLAID SILK PET-EN-LAIR JACKET, 18th C.

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Description: Pale blue, green, cream and purple plaid having rounded front neckline squared in the back above Watteau pleats, short sleeve with bands of self ruching, neck and front trimmed with furbelows, inverted side pleats and linen lining. B-32, W-24, L-24. (Underarms torn and repaired, small splits in shoulder, stain on front trim, scattered small spots, some tearing to edge of several pleats) fair.

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DOTTED COTTON GOWN with SASH / STOLE, 1860's.

Lot 379: DOTTED COTTON GOWN with SASH / STOLE, 1860's.

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Description: 2-piece white dotted Swiss, boned bodice having short puffed sleeve, front buttons and bobbin lace trim, lined in ivory silk under white cotton, unlined skirt having guaged gathers with ribbon waistband, hem ruffle trimmed with embroidered net band, self sash. B-36, W-24, skirt L-44, sash 14 1/2 x 130. (Small repair in back of skirt, scattered small holes) good.

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JOLLY & SON WOOL PALETOT, 1860 - 1865.

Lot 380: JOLLY & SON WOOL PALETOT, 1860 - 1865.

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Description: Cream flannel jacket trimmed with black passementerie in a pattern of double bands and scallops, composition buttons with profile in relief. Labeled. B-42, L-32. (Trim losses around neck, very minor moth damage) good.

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STRIPED SATIN GOWN, 1770's.

Lot 381: STRIPED SATIN GOWN, 1770's.

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Description: 2-piece ivory taffeta with peach pinstripe, front lacing bodice with narrow over elbow length sleeve, back having stitched down pleats opening to form peplum with furbelows, linen lining with waist tie, skirt open at sides with linen ties, narrow pleats to either side of center front, skirt lined in cotton muslin. B-34, W-24, skirt L-38. (Lacking laces, few tiny holes, faint stains on skirt, skirt lining repaired, some holes to silk hem binding) very good.

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PLAID SILK ROBE a la FRANCAIS, 18th C.

Lot 382: PLAID SILK ROBE a la FRANCAIS, 18th C.

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Description: Pink, green and cream plaid open gown having 3/4 sleeve and V neck, back with pair of double box pleats falling from the neck and stitched down 4 inches at the top, inverted pleats at front and back waist, bodice linen bodice lining with ties, matching petticoat pleated at waist with side ties and linen back panel. B-32, L-56, W-33, petticoat L-37. (scattered small holes, hemline soiled, both pieces have pieced repairs at hemline, one tie missing) good.

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STRIPED SILK PET-EN-L'AIR and PETTICOAT, c. 1750.

Lot 383: STRIPED SILK PET-EN-L'AIR and PETTICOAT, c. 1750.

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Description: Lime green silk ottoman having wide ombree blue, black and white stripe, the sacque back jacket with double fan shaped cuff trimmed in looped cord, pleated petticoat with center back inverted pleat, open at both sides from waist bound in white linen tape with linen ties, hem bound in gold linen, unfinished stommacher trimmed with self furbelow, completely unlined. B-34, W-26, jacket L-28, skirt L-37. (Jacket back worn and lightly soiled along fold mark near hem, few minor spots and tiny holes) excellent.

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PARIS LABEL WINTER WEDDING GOWN and ACCESSORIES, 1883.

Lot 384: PARIS LABEL WINTER WEDDING GOWN and ACCESSORIES, 1883.

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Description: 1-piece ivory silk faille having boned polonaise bodice with 3/4 sleeve trimmed in heavy chenille fringe with white beads. Underskirt draped in angled wide pleats over rows of ruffles comprised of pointed pleats, train edged in pleated ruffles and lace. Stiffened underskirt and attached bustle pad. Petersham stamped "Robes & Manteaux/Mme Biasse & Co. / Rue St-Honore 388 Paris." B-34, W-24, L-54 with 40 inch train. (Fringe losses, underskirts stained, three bodice buttons missing, silk strong but many seams need mendng) good. Together with a Paris satin corset with baleen stays trimmed in embroidered silk ribbon, satin pumps with bow vamp and strap, silk stockings with lace and embroidery, lace trimmed garter with pearls, paste jewels and wax flowers, and a boned cap sleeve evening bodice with deep points and fancy braided trim. Accessories good-excellent. Lot includes copy of wedding announcement for Sarah T. Sands and Prof. John R. Paddock from The New York Times.

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SILVER SEQUINED SILK EVENING GOWN, 1890's.

Lot 385: SILVER SEQUINED SILK EVENING GOWN, 1890's.

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Description: 2-piece platinum satin having back lacing bodice, short ruched sleeve with puffed shoulder, pleated chiffon sides, trimmed in embroidered net with silver sequins, studs and cut steel buttons. Skirt front hem trimmed in studded net between two pleats, pleated back having studded net drapery. B-34, W-28, skirt L 42-47.(Two tiny holes where net was sewn to skirt, some trim detached, few small tears to net, waistband small tears, hemline lightly soiled) very good.

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CHANGEABLE SILK AFTERNOON GOWN, 1890's.

Lot 386: CHANGEABLE SILK AFTERNOON GOWN, 1890's.

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Description: 2-piece rose taffeta with black stripe, bodice having large puffed upper sleeve and cape collar, pleated chiffon midriff trimmed with black satin ribbon and cream lace, skirt having large bow detail, self swag and hem ruffle. B-34, W-24, skirt L-43. (Bones and hooks removed from bodice, skirt waist altered, neck lining torn, 1-inch split in back hem ruffle, tiny hole in capelet) good. PMA.

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TRAINED SILK HIGH NECK GOWN with EMBROIDERY, 1890's.

Lot 387: TRAINED SILK HIGH NECK GOWN with EMBROIDERY, 1890's.

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Description: Grey 2-piece with white floral in satin stitch and French knots, pigeon-breasted bodice with Irish crochet neck insert and trim bands to shoulder over-panels, upper puffed sleeve and fitted elbow band, skirt having tucks at front and side waist, back gathers, silk faille underskirt with pleated hem band. Cleveland label. B-36, W-29, skirt front L-40, back L-58. (Light underarm stains, few faint spots, hemline soiled) good.

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WORTH FANCY DRESS REGIONAL COSTUME, 19th C.

Lot 388: WORTH FANCY DRESS REGIONAL COSTUME, 19th C.

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Description: Boned blue wool front lacing bodice with brick wool inserts and pleated cotton collar, cuff and neck trim all edged in lace, brick wool skirt with guaged gathers at waist over printed cotton underskirt with floral stripe, taffeta petticoat with pleated cotton and lace hem bands and partial hoops, matching lace trimmed bonnet. Petersham labeled "Worth Paris". B-36, W-26, skirt L-41. (Some moth damage) skirt fair, bodice good.

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LADY'S ENGLISH KNICKERS TRIMMED with LACE FLOUNCES, c. 1900.

Lot 389: LADY'S ENGLISH KNICKERS TRIMMED with LACE FLOUNCES, c. 1900.

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Description: Ivory wool flannel having buttoned rear flap and five deep flounces of Valenciennes lace. Printed satin label "The Excelsior". W-27, L-35. (Two tiny spots) excellent.

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LARGE SIZE TRAINED IRISH CROCHET GOWN,  c. 1900.

Lot 390: LARGE SIZE TRAINED IRISH CROCHET GOWN, c. 1900.

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Description: Cream lace with high neck, pigeon breast and elbow length sleeve having elaborate three dimensional flowers. B-46, W-38, L-60 with 12 inch train. (Taken in at back approximately 1 1/2 inches, fabric and original buttons intact, few broken brides) excellent.

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TRAINED SATIN and LACE GOWN, c. 1908.

Lot 391: TRAINED SATIN and LACE GOWN, c. 1908.

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Description: 1-piece with empire bodice having short puffed sleeve, fashioned from wide black silk ribbon and bands of embroidered net lace, long satin bow at back closure. B-34, high W- 32, front L-55 back L-69. (Lacking under-dress) otherwise excellent.

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TRAINED BATTENBURG LACE HIGH NECK GOWN, c. 1902.

Lot 392: TRAINED BATTENBURG LACE HIGH NECK GOWN, c. 1902.

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Description: Cream lace over silk with curving bodice having striped net long sleeve and neck insert edged in metallic gold net with beaded tassels. B-38, W-30, front L-58, back L-68. (Broken brides, silk lining shattering, small holes to net) fair.

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VELVET GOWN with APPLIQUE and EMBROIDERY, c. 1908.

Lot 393: VELVET GOWN with APPLIQUE and EMBROIDERY, c. 1908.

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Description: Emerald green 2-piece with lace high neck insert and sleeve, bodice appliqued with colorful embroidery and cordwork and trimmed with ball tassels. Slightly trained pleated skirt having horizontal curving pleat with tassels. Together with a jacket of the same velvet with gigot sleeve and embroidered cream silk trim. B-38, W-25, skirt L-40-45. (Bodice lining shattered, few missing ball tassels, waistband replaced, jacket worn at front point) good.

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SILK and LAME EVENING DRESS, c. 1908.

Lot 394: SILK and LAME EVENING DRESS, c. 1908.

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Description: Black satin with gold lame roses, bodice having square neckline with black net sleeve over cream chiffon, black velvet midriff band decorated at the waist, back and shoulder with jet, steel and crystal beads, net over-skirt and asymmetrical train. New York label. B-36, W-28. (Minor oxidation, chiffon torn under arm, few holes in net, alterations, skirt held together with pins below the hip) fair.

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TRAINED SILK and GOLD METALLIC EMPIRE GOWN, c. 1908.

Lot 395: TRAINED SILK and GOLD METALLIC EMPIRE GOWN, c. 1908.

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Description: Sleeveless mint green satin having beaded net bodice insert and gold lame waistband, trained skirt decorated with heavy metallic gold cord, back closure. B-36, high W-32, front L-58, back L-75. (Large fade mark on side, some light stains) fair.

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SATIN DINNER DRESS, c. 1919.

Lot 396: SATIN DINNER DRESS, c. 1919.

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Description: Rose pink satin and cut velvet having long dagged sleeve, cream lace collar and neck insert, self belt threaded through folded back panels, lined in crepe-de-chine. B-42, W-40, L-57. (Lining fragile, some breaks) overall very good.

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SILK OPERA COAT, EARLY 20th C.

Lot 397: SILK OPERA COAT, EARLY 20th C.

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Description: Ribbed ivory satin trimmed with braid and crimped fringe, upper back smocked above cape effect with fancy silk ribbon and faux fur lining. B-46, L-43. (Lining torn at shoulders, fur losses) good.

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STRIPED METALLIC FANCY DRESS COAT, LATE 19th - EARLY 20th C.

Lot 398: STRIPED METALLIC FANCY DRESS COAT, LATE 19th - EARLY 20th C.

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Description: Woven gold stripe with applied metallic lace, silk lining trimmed in gold cord and wide belt decorated with gilt buttons, metallic braid, rick-rack and faux buckle having turquoise cabochons. (Worn underarms and sleeve ends, broken metallic threads) fair.

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ARTS & CRAFTS EMBROIDERED DAY DRESS, EARLY 20th C.

Lot 399: ARTS & CRAFTS EMBROIDERED DAY DRESS, EARLY 20th C.

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Description: 1-piece natural linen decorated with blue and cream floral satin stitch and French knots, V-neck, 3/4 cuffed sleeve, self belt and side hip panels, faux self buttons with embroidery. B-38, W-28, H-38, L-51. (Scattered minor spots, belt pendant detached) good.

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TRAINED FORTUNY STENCILED VELVET NEO-CLASSICAL GOWN, EARLY 20th C.

Lot 400: TRAINED FORTUNY STENCILED VELVET NEO-CLASSICAL GOWN, EARLY 20th C.

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Description: Pink and pomegranate mottled velvet, stenciled with a Medieval style pattern in gold,having long sleeve, the underside inset with pleated raspberry silk held with a series of Murano glass beads and silk cord loops, continuing down sides to hem, the pleating angled into a square train. Round label woven in black and gold faille "Mariano Fortuny Venise". B-40, front L-54, back L-66. (Few tiny holes in side pleats, some beads damaged, three beads missing) excellent.

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FOUR FLORAL BROCADE SILK SASHES, LATE 19th C.

Lot 440: FOUR FLORAL BROCADE SILK SASHES, LATE 19th C.

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Description: Including two French with rose pattern and knotted fringe. Together with a warp printed moire silk sash with matching cummerbund. 6 3/4 - 9 inches wide, 82 - 108 inches long. Good-excellent. MMA.

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FIVE SILK SASHES, 19th C.

Lot 441: FIVE SILK SASHES, 19th C.

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Description: Two black moire, one having pointed ends with jet beading and tassels, 8 3/4 x 172, one with oversized bow, 10 3/4 x 90. Three French satin including one plaid, all with knotted fringe, 9 x 108. Excellent. MMA.

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SEVEN BEADED BAGS, 19th - EARLY 20th C.

Lot 442: SEVEN BEADED BAGS, 19th - EARLY 20th C.

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Description: Three having hinged metal frame, four drawstring type. Smallest 5 x 6, largest 7 1/2 x 10. (Lining shattered in pink bag, some minor bead loss, two with fringe losses) good-excellent.

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GENTLEMAN'S WALKING STICK. 19th C.

Lot 443: GENTLEMAN'S WALKING STICK. 19th C.

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Description: Long walking/hiking stick with gold cap and ring (untested), engraved "Gerard Walton". Length 51". Excellent.

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LOT of U.S. MILITARY BRASS INSIGNIA, 19th - EARLY 20th C.

Lot 444: LOT of U.S. MILITARY BRASS INSIGNIA, 19th - EARLY 20th C.

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Description: Two shoulder scales, belt buckle, Marine Corps, cavalry and infantry pressed brass insignias, and oak leaf Major's epaulettes. Largest 6 1/2 inches. Good-excellent.

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GENTS ENGLISH BICORNE HAT and CASE, 1st HALF 19th C.

Lot 445: GENTS ENGLISH BICORNE HAT and CASE, 1st HALF 19th C.

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Description: Black beaver trimmed with passementerie, faille ribbon, gold braid and coiled rope, silk lining. Labeled "Owen Harries & Co. 15, Russell Street Landport." Metal case with paint decoration and plaque "Brigdr. General T. W. Lemmon. C. B." (Scratches and losses to paint) case very good, hat excellent. FIT.

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7th NEW YORK NATIONAL GUARD CARTRIDGE CASE and SHOULDER STRAP, 19th C.

Lot 447: 7th NEW YORK NATIONAL GUARD CARTRIDGE CASE and SHOULDER STRAP, 19th C.

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Description: Black leather case with brass "7NG" insignia, interior with wooden block drilled for cartridges, white rawhide shoulder strap stamped "A. STEVENS. CO. F". 7 1/2 x 6. Excellent.

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LOT of DOLL ACCESSORIES, 19th and 20th C.

Lot 448: LOT of DOLL ACCESSORIES, 19th and 20th C.

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Description: Consisting of a folding fan with carved and gilt bone sticks, two pair gloves, pair of galoshes, leather cowboy boots with spurs, trapunto bonnet with lace trim and a felt hat with original box. Fair-excellent.

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SET of SIX GENT'S BUTTONS with SPORTING SCENES, c. 1910.

Lot 449: SET of SIX GENT'S BUTTONS with SPORTING SCENES, c. 1910.

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Description: Small lithograph buttons with omega shaft and separate ring back, each with unique sporting scene in original green leather case. Buttons 1/2 inch, case 3 inches in diameter. (Ink markings on back of case) otherwise excellent.

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EIGHT TYROLEAN HAT ORNAMENTS, c. 1930.

Lot 450: EIGHT TYROLEAN HAT ORNAMENTS, c. 1930.

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Description: All boar hair with ornamental metal clasp. Largest 10 inches, smallest, 5 inches. (Two bound but missing clasp) fair-excellent. FIT.

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METALLIC BROCADE BAG with PEACOCK DECORATION, c. 1910.

Lot 451: METALLIC BROCADE BAG with PEACOCK DECORATION, c. 1910.

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Description: Silk and gold lame having floral brocade decorated with purple silk and metallic padded embroidery with peacock motif, drawstring top with silk cord and tassels. 7 x 7 1/2. (Few broken threads) excellent.

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TWO PAIR LADIES' CUSTOM DECO EVENING SHOES, 1920's.

Lot 452: TWO PAIR LADIES' CUSTOM DECO EVENING SHOES, 1920's.

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Description: Both floral silk and metallic brocade with 2-inch Louis heel: One having rhinestone trimmed vamp and center "Y" strap and domed buttons, insole stamped "Bob 628-5th Ave. New York". One T-strap with rhinestone ring and buckle, insole stamped "Bob Inc. 642-5th Ave. New York". 9 1/4 - 9 1/2 x 2 3/4. Excellent.

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TWO PAIR LADIES' CUSTOM MADE DECO EVENING SHOES, 1920's.

Lot 453: TWO PAIR LADIES' CUSTOM MADE DECO EVENING SHOES, 1920's.

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Description: One robin's egg blue suede with gold leather straps and Louis heel, having diamond shaped insert with black and gold floral pattern (gold losses) and jeweled dome buttons (one detached). One black and gold Florentine pattern leather with gold trim and Louis heel, jeweled dome buttons (some buttons oxidized). Both stamped "Bob 628-5th Ave New York". 9 1/2 x 2 3/4 with 1 3/4 heel, Very good - excellent.

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