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Passion for Fashion

by Kerry Taylor Auctions


192 lots with images

June 25, 2013

Live Auction

249-253 Long Lane

London, SE1 4PR United Kingdom

Phone: +44 (0)20 8676 4600

Fax: +44 (0)20 3137 0112

Email: info@kerrytaylorauctions.com

192 Lots
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An Hermès brown crocodile handbag, late 1960s,

Lot 1: An Hermès brown crocodile handbag, late 1960s,

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Description: An Hermès brown crocodile handbag, late 1960s, crocodylus porosus, stamped in gold to the interior Hermès, Paris, with circular gilt ring clasp, shoulder strap, lined in tan leather, 26cm, 10 1/4in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU

Condition Report: very slight wear to lower corners, 8cm of stitching re-sewn on lower right side of bag at front. Interior of flap has a biro mark 1.5cm and is heavily soiled, interior is soiled in appearance generally, would benefit from cleaning/polishing

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An Hermès tan calf leather Birkin, 1996, stamped

Lot 2: An Hermès tan calf leather Birkin, 1996, stamped

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Description: An Hermès tan calf leather Birkin, 1996, stamped and engraved with maker's name, blind stamp A, with gilt hardware, padlock and two keys, 35cm, 13 1/2in long

Condition Report: Lower corners are very rubbed, upper front edge of closure flap is slightly grubby, in need of a clean and polish, handles are soiled in appearance through regular use, slight soiling inside

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A Loewe green lizard bag, late 1960s, maker's name

Lot 3: A Loewe green lizard bag, late 1960s, maker's name

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Description: A Loewe green lizard bag, late 1960s, maker's name stamped to the interior, with large silvered metal mounts to the adjustable shoulder strap, lifter clasp, 19cm, 7 1/2in long Please note that this lot cannot be exported outside the EU.

Condition Report: Lizard bag and purse are good condition, skin is very shiny and fresh, looks little used

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An Hermès wine pigskin Kelly bag, 1985, blind

Lot 5: An Hermès wine pigskin Kelly bag, 1985, blind

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Description: An Hermès wine pigskin Kelly bag, 1985, blind stamp O, with gilt hardware, fob, 40cm, 15 3/4in long

Condition Report: lacking padlock lower edges are slightly scuffed, otherwise in good condition, leather is supple and fresh, looks little used, interior is good

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An Hermès black pigskin Kelly bag, 1992, blind

Lot 6: An Hermès black pigskin Kelly bag, 1992, blind

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Description: An Hermès black pigskin Kelly bag, 1992, blind stamp V, and marked in gold to the interior 'Hermès Paris, Made in France' and signed to the gilt closure tabs, with broad webbing shoulder strap, 41cm, 16in long

Condition Report: good condition - looks little used, slight rubbing on lower corners, leather is shiny and supple

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An Hermès black ostrich Kelly bag, circa 1970,

Lot 7: An Hermès black ostrich Kelly bag, circa 1970,

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Description: An Hermès black ostrich Kelly bag, circa 1970, stamped to the interior 'Hermès Paris, Made in France' and signed to the gilt closure tabs, with key fob, leather covered padlock and detachable shoulder strap, 36cm, 14in long

Condition Report: good condition, little used, black is slightly faded, very slight soiling inside, slight discolouration is leather under one of the hand loops, couple of faint brown spots to tab on other side of handle

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An Hermès white whaleskin Kelly bag, late 1960s,

Lot 8: An Hermès white whaleskin Kelly bag, late 1960s,

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Description: An Hermès white whaleskin Kelly bag, late 1960s, delphinapterus leucas, signed to the gilt closure tabs, with key fob and padlock,36cm, 14in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU

Condition Report: exterior of the bag has been re-whitened, rubbing to lower corners, indentations on one side of base, paint chipped on feet, the fob colour (ivory) is probably what the bag originally was or became. It discoloured to ivory with age and was re-finished in white - hence the low estimate. Interior is heavily soiled but it's a rare leather.

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An Hermès caramel lizard Kelly bag, 1996, blind

Lot 9: An Hermès caramel lizard Kelly bag, 1996, blind

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Description: An Hermès caramel lizard Kelly bag, 1996, blind stamp Z, varanus niloticus, with gilt hardware, optional shoulder strap, matching padlock and fob, 33cm, 13in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU

Condition Report: Main body of the bag has darkened in colour. Area under the closure strap and front flap is paler than the rest of the bag. Bag looks un-used.

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A fine Hermès orange crocodile Kelly bag, 1995,

Lot 13: A fine Hermès orange crocodile Kelly bag, 1995,

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Description: A fine Hermès orange crocodile Kelly bag, 1995, crocodylus porosus, blind stamp Y, with gilt hardware, matching leather covered padlock, fob with keys, and alternative gilt padlock with keys, and shoulder strap, 29cm, 11 1/2in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU

Condition Report: Good condition, looks un-used

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An Hermès brown crocodile Kelly bag, 1974,

Lot 14: An Hermès brown crocodile Kelly bag, 1974,

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Description: An Hermès brown crocodile Kelly bag, 1974, crocodylus porosus, blind stamp D, with gilt hardware, fob and leather covered padlock, shoulder strap, 29cm, 11 1/2in long Please note there are export restrictions on this lot outside the EU

Condition Report: great quality crocodile, slight rubbing to base edges in a couple of places, slight tarnishing to clasp (minor), inside base of bag shows slight scuffing signs of use, very pretty bag, good condition

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A fine printed leather reticule, French, early

Lot 17: A fine printed leather reticule, French, early

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Description: A fine printed leather reticule, French, early 19th century, with finely detailed engraved print to one side of a rotund, un-fashionable gentleman being scolded by his wife 'a la maison' to one side and with a comely young wench to the other 'au cabaret', with cord draw-string, 14cm, 5 1/2in high

Condition Report: Good condition, really soft and pliable leather, colours are good. Looks unused or little used.

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An embroidered satin undress cap, probably French,

Lot 18: An embroidered satin undress cap, probably French,

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Description: An embroidered satin undress cap, probably French, early 18th century, embroidered in pastel silks and gilt threads with baskets of blooms, scrolling carnations, with gold bobbin lace edging to the up-turned flap, topped with a gilt tassel, 16cm, 6in high

Condition Report: satin is worn in numerous places, embroidery and gilt threads are generally good and the gold threads are very bright. Colours are good.

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A pair of yellow brocaded satin shoes, 1730s,

Lot 19: A pair of yellow brocaded satin shoes, 1730s,

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Description: A pair of yellow brocaded satin shoes, 1730s, woven with lace patterns accented in pink and green, with green ribbon bindings, up-turned curved toes, 22cm, 8 1/2in long (2)

Condition Report: Slightly soiled appearance generally, silk is splitting at toe tips, worm hole in one heel, split in silk at one side of one heel approx 5cm. Silk is repaired (lightly darned) below ribbon binding on one side

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A fine and rare pair of Diana Slip fetish boots,

Lot 20: A fine and rare pair of Diana Slip fetish boots,

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Description: A fine and rare pair of Diana Slip fetish boots, French, circa 1930, with gold embossed leather maker's label to the interior, '9 Rue Richepanse, Paris-Madeleine', fine red leather piping to the scalloped tops, heel tip and outlining the toe section on the upper, steep heel, brass eyelet loops with laces to fasten from sole to thigh, 23cm, 9in long approx UK size 4-5 (2) See 'Schuhe' Saskia Durian-Ress pp 281-283 for calf to knee length fetish boots. The height of the Diana Slip boots and the heel-toe proximity means that walking in them would have been almost impossible. They are an extremely fine example of this oeuvre. Diana Slip was a specialist lingerie and erotica company established in Paris in the 1930s by Leo Vidal. They specialised in fetish clothes, saucy postcards and literature and everything madame or monsieur might require for the boudoir, so to speak. He employed some of the leading photographers of the day such as Brassai, Jean Moral and Roger Schall, all of whom need the work during the depression. The company went into liquidation at the end of World War II.

Condition Report: black finish to the leather is worn on creases around the toe area of the upper, signs of use to the heels and soles. Line of stitching has come undone on inside tongues on top edge.

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Two pairs of women's glam-rock style platform

Lot 21: Two pairs of women's glam-rock style platform

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Description: Two pairs of women's glam-rock style platform boots, modern, in red, silver and blue glitter fabric with zip fasteners; and silver glitter with red stars with front laces, size 6 UK (4) SALEROOM NOTICE: ALTERED DESCRIPTION AND ESTIMATE

Condition Report: Good condition, both have been used/worn. Silver pair have slight wear along crease line above toe area on upper, slight soiling to platform edge. Blue and red pair - slight soiling, good condition.

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Two pairs of Mondaine/Mondial 'Mirages' heel-less

Lot 22: Two pairs of Mondaine/Mondial 'Mirages' heel-less

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Description: Two pairs of Mondaine/Mondial 'Mirages' heel-less shoes, 1959, comprising: black suede pair, also with Dolcis Studio labels, size 4; and gold leather with glass beaded rosettes, size 6 (4)

Condition Report: Gold pair - leather soles show slight signs of use, but gold leather uppers are good. Very, very slight rubbing at toe tip, barely noticeable. Bead rosettes are good, very slight scuffing at heels. Good condition. Black pair - leather sole stamped 'Brev.Mondiale Griffi, Italy' 37. Good condition.

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Two pairs of black patent leather fetish shoes,

Lot 23: Two pairs of black patent leather fetish shoes,

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Description: Two pairs of black patent leather fetish shoes, probably 1930s, comprising: pair with vertiginous 20cm heels, possibly for wear by a man, with piped white leather rands, faint imprint on soles 'Made in Belgium', UK size approx 8-9; the other with punched leather trim to upper edges, white leather inlay to heel tip, approx UK size 5-6 (4)

Condition Report: Larger pair though extreme in shape show signs of heavy use. The insoles have crudely made leather patches applied over the heel area, exterior leather is generally good; Lady's (smaller) pair - again these shoes have been heavily used, numerous blemishes to the external leather, the patent finish has deteriorated, 2 small bare patches to one heel, corresponding two bare patches to left upper presumably where they stuck together during storage. The leather is ok now, so signs of tackiness.

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A pair of leather postillion boots, probably

Lot 24: A pair of leather postillion boots, probably

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Description: A pair of leather postillion boots, probably French, first half 18th century, of heavy, dark-brown leather, the rigid legs banded with iron, the upper edged padded with horse-hair, with domed, rounded toe, multi-layered leather sole and heel, the shaped spur-leathers chased with fleurs de lys, 59cm, 27in high (2)

Condition Report: Removeable zinc flower containers have been made to go in each boot. Padding on the top of one boot is worn and horsehair stuffing is exposed. Straps that hold the front spur panels are missing and replaced by wire. Considering age they are pretty good.

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A collection of gloves, originally belonging to

Lot 25: A collection of gloves, originally belonging to

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Description: A collection of gloves, originally belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, French, 1950s-60s, seven pairs, mainly of soft kid leather or suede from above wrist length - elbow length in shades of grey, beige and brown and a pair of long green crêpe silk evening gloves (14) Provenance: ex lot 2162, Sotheby's New York, Duke and Duchess of Windsor auction, February 1998.

Condition Report: good condition, they still have their Sotheby's Windsor sale tags. Long brown pair have a few small stains, and pale grey pair have one small grease spot otherwise good. Generally good condition, look little used.

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A Pierre Cardin enamelled pendant, late 1960s,

Lot 25A: A Pierre Cardin enamelled pendant, late 1960s,

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Description: A Pierre Cardin enamelled pendant, late 1960s, signed on the reverse, of gilt metal with midnight blue centre, with three central rotating ellipses studded with rhinestones and enamelled green to the reverse, on gilt chain, the pendant 8cm, 4in high

Condition Report: good condition

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A pair of Courrèges white plastic sunglasses,

Lot 26: A pair of Courrèges white plastic sunglasses,

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Description: A pair of Courrèges white plastic sunglasses, 1964, signed along the arms, the solid lenses with horizontal slits, 15cm, 6in long

Condition Report: good condition

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A Pierre Cardin enamelled metal pendant, late

Lot 27: A Pierre Cardin enamelled metal pendant, late

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Description: A Pierre Cardin enamelled metal pendant, late 1960s, signed to the reverse, in shades of blue with rhinestone studded central medallion, on gilt rope-twist choker chain, 9cm, 3 1/2in long, in original case (2)

Condition Report: Chip to enamel on V-shaped loop that the chain is threaded through

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A fine Chanel filigree necklace, probably Goosens,

Lot 28: A fine Chanel filigree necklace, probably Goosens,

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Description: A fine Chanel filigree necklace, probably Goosens, 1960s, signed 'Chanel' to the clasp, the gilt metal plaques inset with carnelian coloured stones, interspersed with pearls, brilliants cabochon green stones, and with large droplet pearl pendant, 49cm, 19in diam

Condition Report: very minor abrasions to the large droplet pearl, gilding is slightly dull with age

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A rare green and yellow knitted silk woman's

Lot 29: A rare green and yellow knitted silk woman's

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Description: A rare green and yellow knitted silk woman's jacket, probably Italian, mid 17th century, the front and back panels with gold thread and yellow silk scrolling foliage and blossom, with textured chequered borders

Condition Report: 3cm vertical ladder in front right panel, the odd small pull but overall food condition. Sleeves and front are slightly faded overall, colour is several degrees stronger at underarms and on the back. Small hole under left breast area. Small hole to rear left shoulder and a tiny one to right shoulder. Approx 1cm hole in rolled plain knit neck edge centre back. 5cm ladder at left side seam. Sleeves are generally good, very small hole above right elbow. Faint brown discolouration on right hip. Overall considering the age of the piece I consider it to be good condition.

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A quilted ivory satin petticoat, second half 18th

Lot 30: A quilted ivory satin petticoat, second half 18th

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Description: A quilted ivory satin petticoat, second half 18th century, with large-scale design of undulating fern fronds and sprouting blooms, lined in ivory wool, with drawstring band forming the waist, 85cm, 33 1/2in

Condition Report: numerous small splits in the silk, quilting is superb. 17 x 8cm patched repair to one side near upper edge. It has been re-quilted to match hem edge all the way round, the silk has been replaced and quilted to match - an extremely good conservation. 3 more patched repairs above hem area on one side - hard to notice and another patched repair on the other side above hem area. Silk is particularly worn on the upper edge and side slit areas. Silk 'waistband' area has been sympathetically replaced all along the upper edge also.

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An embroidered ivory satin waistcoat worked with

Lot 31: An embroidered ivory satin waistcoat worked with

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Description: An embroidered ivory satin waistcoat worked with horse-race scenes, circa 1790, of short, boxy shape embroidered in fine chain stitch with dog-roses, cornflowers, with horses jumping hurdles below each pocket, with inked inscription to the rear linen backing 'EA to WLA', and also 'From SJK to the Lord Russell, March 30th, 1819'

Condition Report: satin is faintly damp speckled overall, colours are good, cotton inserts have been added below the armholes where presumably the silk had rotted. Lined side panels have been added to give extra width and a gusset has been added to the centre back seam. Godets added at shoulders. These all look like early 19th century alterations - presumably at the time of the gift. The satin lining to the front panel is frayed and split at the hem edge on both sides. Lining is soiled with use.

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A gentleman's embroidered satin waistcoat, circa

Lot 32: A gentleman's embroidered satin waistcoat, circa

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Description: A gentleman's embroidered satin waistcoat, circa 1770-80, worked to the borders with mauve and pale blue cornflowers, sprigged, embroidered ground

Condition Report: perspiration stains at underarm, silk is frayed at edge of stand collar, slight staining to front panels. Small patched repair in linen back panels, silk is worn at edges of buttons, faint staining to plain linen back at the centre

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A striped homespun wool 'revolutionary' skirt,

Lot 33: A striped homespun wool 'revolutionary' skirt,

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Description: A striped homespun wool 'revolutionary' skirt, French, late 18th century, of kelim style weave in broad bands of red, white, blue and black, with remains of pink silk binding to the waistband

Condition Report: colours are good, construction is good - no alterations. Pink silk ribbon binding to waistband has largely worn away. Some of the ivory areas show mildew speckles. Slight rubbing/wear along hem edge. 2 small darned holes along hem edge. Occasionally peppered with small moth holes but there are not immediately noticeable in the striped folds.

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An ivory silk faille bridal gown, circa 1871, the

Lot 34: An ivory silk faille bridal gown, circa 1871, the

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Description: An ivory silk faille bridal gown, circa 1871, the bodice and waistband of skirt applied with 'Grand Magasins de la Paix' stamped labels, the bodice with bell-shaped sleeves, jacket-like bodice with curved basque, adorned with Brussels lace and ivory cord passementerie; the apron-type overskirt similarly adorned, over plain faille trained skirt with integral ruched gathers to the rear in the area to take a bustle, bust 76cm, 30in, waist 51cm, 20in (3)

Condition Report: Faint freckle stains to front left side of bodice, very faint pink discolouration/soiling over left breast but barely visible. Faint freckle like stains to lining of rear of bodice basque. Faint yellow mark to rear left of bodice to one side. Overskirt - Small freckle-like stains to front left side and in droplet shapes to the rear of the skirt (it looks as though a gritty water has splashed on the gown at some point, would probably clean off). A cluster of golden spot stains in this area also. Soiling - a darker area is evident on the left rear side - looks like soiling from where it has been folded and left exposed in storage. Underskirt - generally good condition, a few small freckle stains, nice construction, very fresh appearance. Overall - very fresh appearance, no alterations, good condition.

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A rare Emile Pingat brown velvet 'visite' capelet,

Lot 35: A rare Emile Pingat brown velvet 'visite' capelet,

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Description: A rare Emile Pingat brown velvet 'visite' capelet, circa 1890, woven beige label '30 Rue Louis le Grand, 30 Paris', edged with golden silk cord and cotton bobbin lace, the pelerine-like front panels and hem edged in fringes of golden seed-beads, lined in brown satin, fastened by hooks and eyes

Condition Report: Small freckle-like spots on the centre-back lining, a few of the glass bead fringes are missing but generally good. Slight blemishes in the pile on the velvet (minor).

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A rare Ernest Raudnitz chiné 18th century inspired

Lot 36: A rare Ernest Raudnitz chiné 18th century inspired

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Description: A rare Ernest Raudnitz chiné 18th century inspired taffeta ball gown, circa 1893, stamped in gold to the waist-stay 'Ernest Raudnitz, 23 Rue Louis le Grand, Paris', the separate bodice with wide square neckline, ruffled, pleated sleeves, pink chiffon edging and frills, and plastron, adorned with absinthe-green silk ribbons and a silk rosebud, the interior with baleen boning, ivory taffeta lining; the matching skirt with pink chiffon insertion to centre front edged with ruffles of taffeta and posy of silk flowers and ribbons, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2)

Condition Report: taffeta is good, colourful and strong but the pink chiffon areas are beginning to split and wear, there is a large vertical split in the pink chiffon to the centre-front skirt panel. The interior of the dress is good conditiion. There are brown glue stains to the pink chiffon and green ribbon where the posy on the skirt has been attached. The narrow silk edging at the waist has worn. I suspect that stained underarm areas have been cut out and the sleeves re-inserted.

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A Redfern primrose yellow melton wool coat, circa

Lot 37: A Redfern primrose yellow melton wool coat, circa

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Description: A Redfern primrose yellow melton wool coat, circa 1890, the black silk lining bearing the remains of a printed gold 'Redfern 242 Rue de Rivoli' label, with integral capelet, couched gold thread embroidered black faille collar, edged in black ostrich plumes, fastened to the front by hooks and eyes, chest 81cm, 32in

Condition Report: satin lining is splitting at neck edge, couple of splits in the right breast area/lining. Yellow areas are bleached in places - top of cuffs, in fold line on capelet, front left panel of skirt and along fold lines of skirt generally. Colour down the back of garment is generally good. Label is quite worn.

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A rare Redfern navy embossed-velvet and satin

Lot 38: A rare Redfern navy embossed-velvet and satin

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Description: A rare Redfern navy embossed-velvet and satin directoire style gown, circa 1911, narrow label to the waist '26 Conduit Street, no 64502,' the bodice with lace chemisette and gathered tulle cross-over panels, wide lapels trimmed with cut steel buttons, satin belt with matching large buckle, floating satin panels descend from the rear bodice and trained skirt, bust approx 102cm, 40in, waist 82cm, 30in Provenance: Lots 38 to 40: These clothes came from the Pennant family of Nantlys Hall, Tremeirchion, Denbighshire. They belonged to Frances Bankes, from Soughton, near Mold.who married Philip Pennant Pearson of Nantlys in the 1862. There are additional family archive photos on the website.Their son David married Lilla Rogers, the mother with the baby in the photo of April 1902. Philip died in 1910 and Frances in 1923. 'The Queen' magazine illustrated a similar directoire style gown worn with a large hat in 1911. The fashion notes announced that Empire styles were dominant with high waists and demi-trains. It is reproduced in 'Fashion Through Fashion Plates' by Doris Langley Moore, p.148-9. She writes 'We must go back to 1911 to see the headgear of the epoch in its glory. To wear the hat on one side is always a sort of coquetry, and when we have so extreme a slope that one eye is shadowed, almost covered, coquetry amounts to a challenge (but the serious challengers, the Suffragettes, did not favour such hats)....No vanished mode has ever been exactly imitated. Moreover,it is typical of revivals that they are an attempt to assume the character of an age not in the least resembling the one from which it seems desirable to escape.'

Condition Report: Soiled, in need of cleaning, lacking one lace under sleeve , lacking steel buttons from cuffs and one button from one of the lapels. Lace chemisette is dirty along neck edge. Silk bodice lining is surprisingly good - couple of small splits near the waist and a few faint spot stains and faint perspiration stains at underarms - but she wore dress protectors so it's still good. The velvet is embossed with a pretty fern pattern. Steel buttons are slightly corroded in places. Faint brown marks in velvet rear left of bodice. There is a 2 x 4cm hole at right underarm. Ivory silk right inner sleeve has staining. Waistband looks slightly altered at closure. Velvet is worn at closure edge and needs repair. Soiling/stains below waistband top left front area of skirt. Hem is soiled. Faint stains on one of the satin rear 'train' panels.

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A Redfern sage green velvet walking suit, circa

Lot 39: A Redfern sage green velvet walking suit, circa

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Description: A Redfern sage green velvet walking suit, circa 1911, un-labelled, the jacket and skirt adorned with green frogging and lined in green silk; together with a Redfern petrol-blue faille jacket with striped green taffeta collar, black and gold label with Bond St and Conduit St addresses, with frogging to the rear skirt; and an un-labelled green satin skirt, chests 97cm, 38in, waists approx 92cm, 36in (4)

Condition Report: Walking suit - colour has changed to brown in places, lower band of frogging needs re-stitching in places, waistband on skirt has been let out, originally I suspect it had a wider petersham band, now gone. It has been let out by at least 21cm, muslin tag '54869'. L closure hooks have been moved also to widen. Slight soiling to skirt and slight wear to green silk lining. Jacket has been re-lined in green synthetic satin, fastening hooks and loops have been moved to make wider. Blue jacket - striped taffeta on collar and cuffs are beginning to split, several moth holes, lacking frogging fastener on the front. Lining is good, needs re-stitching in a few places, jacket has lead weighted hem. Green satin skirt has petersham waistband, big size still, waist is 34in. Has bleach marks rear right. Has a soiled appearance, needs cleaning. Numerous small snagged threads where the heels have caught the hem. Small white mark /wear to front of skirt.

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A rare Redfern ivory silk driving/duster coat,

Lot 40: A rare Redfern ivory silk driving/duster coat,

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Description: A rare Redfern ivory silk driving/duster coat, circa 1910, large woven label with 26 Conduit Street and 27 New Bond Street addresses, no 40135, the decorative tabs adorned with large buttons, silk loops to fasten; together with a Redfern dark bottle green wool coat, c.1911-14, with black and gold label, with 26 Conduit Street address, no 75225, with square sailor collar, broad belt, lined in satin, chests 92-97cm, 36-38in (2)

Condition Report: Duster coat is heavily soiled and in need of cleaning. There clothes were all crumpled up in a trunk. The construction is good but it is very dirty. No alterations so if it is cleaned it will be a great piece. Green coat - a rare piece, satin lining top-stitched seams have been re-sewn in places (minor), label is partly detached. Moth attack on centre front belt and waist area, front left pocket, under rear collar, along hem edge, a few tiny holes down back panel.

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An ivory tapelace and black chiffon evening gown,

Lot 41: An ivory tapelace and black chiffon evening gown,

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Description: An ivory tapelace and black chiffon evening gown, circa 1905, the boned bodice trimmed with black satin rosettes to the shoulders and swags of sequined tulle edged in beaded pom-poms, deep pointed V to ivory satin waist, ruffles of lace to the sleeves, the separate skirt similarly trimmed and adorned, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 64cm, 25in (2)

Condition Report: Bodice - faint brown stain to back of bodice, wear and perspiration stains to underarms, armhole seams have been re-sewn at the underarms. Silk lining is stained but generally good. Silk binding has frayed at the edges in places. Chiffon is worn at underarms at exterior. Lace has split over the shoulders. Lace flounces over sleeves have been re-backed. Skirt - overskirt of chiffon is generally good, top centre-front of the chiffon has light stains. There is a small split in lining immediately below the waistband, approx 4cm chiffon panel is missing. Tulle backing to tapelace panels has numerous small breaks. Chiffon in tightly gathered, shirred area below rear waistband is splitting and fragile. Skirt lining has a few stains but is basically good.

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A tea gown, circa 1890, formed from an 1830s

Lot 42: A tea gown, circa 1890, formed from an 1830s

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Description: A tea gown, circa 1890, formed from an 1830s Paisley design shawl, the ivory wool ground woven with large foliate botehs in predominantly red and blue, boned bodice, fastening by hooks to centre-front, bust 76cm, 30in

Condition Report: Some slight moth damage and discoloration to the ivory areas, but overall good. Cotton bodice lining is discoloured. Wear to satin lining at neck. Perspiration stains at underarms. Exterior shawl panels are generally good - the odd barely visible stain. Slight moth damage to wool lining at he and bodice front openings. Well executed darn to rear right sleeve and left rear skirt and several other small darns in ivory areas of rear skirt.

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A rare Omega Workshop blouse, circa 1914, of white

Lot 43: A rare Omega Workshop blouse, circa 1914, of white

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Description: A rare Omega Workshop blouse, circa 1914, of white linen, the borders with faggotted seams, edged in Vanessa Bell designed 1913 'Maud' modernist printed linen in shades of blue and pink, of simple T-shaped construction, bust approx 86cm, 34in For a larger panel of this printed linen see the Victoria & Albert Museum collection: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O105854/maud-furnishing-fabric-bell-vanessa/ Exhibited: Anthony d'Offay Gallery, ' The Omega Workshops Alliance and Enmity in English Art 1911-1920', 1984 no 132. The Hayward Gallery 'Addressing the Century - 100 Years of Art & Fashion' 1998, which transferred to the Kunstmuseum, Wolfsburg in 1999.

Condition Report: The 'Maud' fabric has faded on the front - it is much stronger on the back. There are colour changes in the silk used for the hand-sewn faggoting where different skeins were used. Small faint brown mark to front left of bodice but barely noticeable. Small rust spot to lawn lining on inside of neck band.

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A fine Reville & Rossiter deep magenta-pink satin

Lot 44: A fine Reville & Rossiter deep magenta-pink satin

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Description: A fine Reville & Rossiter deep magenta-pink satin opera coat, 1912, with dated embroidered satin label, the draped wrap-over front panels with piped seams, button to one hip, embroidered overall with large pearlised roses and foliage

Condition Report: Good condition, tiny hole in the label, couple of small pinhead holes in the lining, lining is frayed at neck edge. Remarkably good condition for its age. Very lustrous fabric. Beadwork is good also.

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A black beaded tulle opera coat, mid 1920s, with

Lot 45: A black beaded tulle opera coat, mid 1920s, with

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Description: A black beaded tulle opera coat, mid 1920s, with overall seed and bugle bead cascade designs with scrolls to shoulders and hem, fastened by two glass buttons,

Condition Report: beading is generally good, few pinhead sized holes scalttered over the tulle ground, we have safety pinned a loose strand of beads on the cuff to stop it from running, overall good condition

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Two beaded dresses, late 1920s, one of black satin

Lot 46: Two beaded dresses, late 1920s, one of black satin

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Description: Two beaded dresses, late 1920s, one of black satin with large red and black beaded peonies and steel grey beaded fringes and floating panels falling from the shoulders, the other of royal blue chiffon with long fringes in shades of blue and ivory, both busts 92cm, 36in (2)

Condition Report: Black satin dress has faint smudge mark to the bodice, the beading on the shoulders looks like a repair probably to cover wear in that area. The satin underskirt has been shortened by tacking a fold in the satin all away around above the hem but this could be unpicked. Beading is good. Blue dress - some detached beaded fringes, armholes have been enlarged, fair condition

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A beaded muslin opera coat, mid 1920s, the ivory

Lot 47: A beaded muslin opera coat, mid 1920s, the ivory

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Description: A beaded muslin opera coat, mid 1920s, the ivory ground covered in pink, silver and gold bugle beaded floral swags, with draped back cinching into low waist, batwing sleeves, scarf ties to the neck

Condition Report: Good condition, great colours, no problems. Lovely piece, strong and wearable.

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A Mariano Fortuny copper silk Delphos gown, circa

Lot 48: A Mariano Fortuny copper silk Delphos gown, circa

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Description: A Mariano Fortuny copper silk Delphos gown, circa 1920-30, stamped Fortuny to muslin tape on inside shoulder, with striped yellow Murano beads to the shoulders, armholes and sides

Condition Report: Original cord that would have threaded through the neck has been replaced with a fine strand of elastic. Hem edge needs re-stitching in places, neck edge has been re-sewn in place when the elastic was inserted. Folds are pretty good

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A fine embroidered and beaded chinoiserie jacket,

Lot 49: A fine embroidered and beaded chinoiserie jacket,

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Description: A fine embroidered and beaded chinoiserie jacket, attributed to Margaine Lacroix, circa 1925, of gold lamé adorned with pagodas and figures carrying parasols in mainly pink, blue and yellow beads and sequins with finely chain-stitched silk details, chest 102cm, 42in For similar coats by Margaine Lacroix with Egyptian and chinoiserie motifs see the Musée Palais Galiera catalogue 'Les Annes Folles 1919-1929'.

Condition Report: Good condition. There are 3 button stitched loops, but no means of fastening i.e no buttons or hooks. Gold lame is bright and beading is good, no problems.

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A Mariano Fortuny stencilled black velvet evening

Lot 50: A Mariano Fortuny stencilled black velvet evening

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Description: A Mariano Fortuny stencilled black velvet evening gown, circa 1920-30, with circular label to beige satin lining, the front and back stencilled in gold with interlocking geometric strapwork repeats with islamic calligraphy borders, the sleeves and sides inset with pleated black silk adorned with Murano glass beads, bust approx 92-97cm, 36-38in

Condition Report: some of the silk side ties are missing, the hem and cuffs have been shortened. There is a 1cm split in the cuff of the left sleeve in the pleated silk. There is a small hole and repair at the right elbow. The velvet areas are good, and the stencilling is strong and bright. Missing six underarm loops on left and right arms.

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A fine Mariano Fortuny black silk Delphos, circa

Lot 51: A fine Mariano Fortuny black silk Delphos, circa

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Description: A fine Mariano Fortuny black silk Delphos, circa 1920-30, printed in scarlet along the selvedge seam 'Made in Italy, Fabrique en Italie, Fortuny Depose', the long sleeves and neckline edged in striped Murano glass beads; the matching satin belt stencilled with silver leaves, also with Fortuny signature (2)

Condition Report: The gown is in very fresh condition - it appears to be little worn. The beads to fix to the correct waist size on the belt are still attached by a thread - waiting to be sewn in place. There us very, very slight loosening of pleats in the seat area but minimal. There are approx 5 barely visible pin-prick holes around the hem area (minor). This is probably the most perfect condition Fortuny I have ever seen.

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A Schiaparelli black satin-backed textured crêpe

Lot 52: A Schiaparelli black satin-backed textured crêpe

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Description: A Schiaparelli black satin-backed textured crêpe evening gown, early 1930s, bearing remains of early label '4 rue de la paix - Paris', with high halter-neck, low back with buttons below, the skirt falling in a pointed train to the back, bust approx 86cm, 34in Provenance: the vendor tells us that the dress originally belonged to Madame Agnes, the hat designer. Schiaparelli opened her first fashion house at 4 Rue de la Paix in 1928 which was part work-room, part apartment. The sign outside bore the legend 'Schiaparelli pour Sport'. She moved to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935. Although famed for her avant-garde creations, Schiaparelli was a good business woman and always ensured that sophisticated black evening gowns were included in every collection which appealed to a wider clientele. These were often sold with matching highly embellished evening jackets. Although many of the jackets survive - the dresses are more rare.

Condition Report: The owner of this gown added a prestud fastener to the underside of the pointed, trained skirt so that it could be safely clipped up out of the way for dancing or walking. Fabric has an attractive, textured, waffle-effect surface. Good condition, no problems.

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A Jeanne Lanvin couture black satin bias-cut

Lot 54: A Jeanne Lanvin couture black satin bias-cut

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Description: A Jeanne Lanvin couture black satin bias-cut evening gown, Spring-Summer 1938, large woven label, pencil numbered to the reverse 26412, with curved bolero shaped seams to the front bodice, long sleeves with beaded, sequined and embroidered blue organza cuffs, bust 97cm, 38in, waist 86cm, 34in

Condition Report: waist has been slightly raised at back waist seam approx 1cm (to prevent skirt trailing), zipper has been replaced. Sleeves have been slightly shortened by folding over and tacking in place the black satin above the cuffs but easily reversed. Beading in cuffs is good. Exterior satin is good. One narrow shoulder pad is detached.

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Two Schiaparelli blouses, both bearing 21 Place

Lot 55: Two Schiaparelli blouses, both bearing 21 Place

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Description: Two Schiaparelli blouses, both bearing 21 Place Vendôme Paris printed labels, one of horizontally striped purple seersucker with blue enamelled button, probably 1930s; the other of acid-green slubbed silk c.1950, busts approx 97cm, 38in (2)

Condition Report: Purple blouse is good condition, it may have been re-dyed, it is hard to say. Acid green shantung blouse is also good condition.

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A Daphne black satin couture evening gown, late

Lot 56: A Daphne black satin couture evening gown, late

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Description: A Daphne black satin couture evening gown, late 1930s, labelled '37 South Molton Street, W1', the side panels tying in a bow at the back, criss-cross straps, bust approx 86cm, 34in

Condition Report: Good condition, very fresh, no problems, great construction

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