Passion for Fashion

Lot 52: A collection of French magazines, 1949-1968,

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Description: A collection of French magazines, 1949-1968, including Femme Chic Autumn Winter 1959-60 and 1967-68; Le Jardin des Modes, haute couture special, A/W 1950, and 25 issues of Elle 1949-62, (29)

Condition Report: Point de vue n°196 du 6 mars 1952

Lot 53: Queen Victoria's chemise and split drawers, late

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Description: Queen Victoria's chemise and split drawers, late 19th century, of fine linen, the vast drawers embroidered to the waistband in white silk with VR and a queenly crown; the chemise similarly embroidered and with the no 24, edged in Valenciennes lace, (2)

Condition Report: Some faint damp speckling to the chemise

Lot 54: Queen Victoria's stockings, late 19th century, of

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Description: Queen Victoria's stockings, late 19th century, of black and cream knitted silk, the upper edges with VR surmounted by crown and 10, (2)

Condition Report: good condition

Lot 55: A pair of rare beadworked ladies garters, circa

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Description: A pair of rare beadworked ladies garters, circa 1860, of white kid leather with adjustable straps and plated fastenings, 34cm, 13 1/4in long, (2)

Condition Report: good condition apart from two white sticky archive labels which have been attached at the back, tan leather is slightly discoloured from handling beadwork, garters are still very elastic

Lot 56: A pair of heavy white calico transitional stays,

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Description: A pair of heavy white calico transitional stays, 1830s, with top-stitched gores to the breasts and hips, the back with metal eyelets and laces, with internal apertures for inserting bones and bust, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in

Condition Report: very fresh condition, laces are not original

Lot 57: A rare pair of grapefruit shaped bust improvers

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Description: A rare pair of grapefruit shaped bust improvers with internal springs, 1890s, of white cotton with ties to the sides; together with a pair of top-stitched calico bust improvers reinforced with horsehair, front laced; and a Dr Warner's black sanitary corset, late 1870s, with quilted breast panels, button-fronted with elasticated back, (3)

Condition Report: Grapefruit shaped bust improvers: white cotton is discoloured with age and a few small rust spots to right breast cup. Springs are still very bouncy! The cotton ties to each side have opened up and frayed at the edges with use. There are the remains of a maker's circular stamp which may say `patent applied for' but I can't be sure. There are two sweat stains on the lower edge. The upper edge has lace trimmed decoration but the lower edge is plain. Good condition Calico bust improvers - decoratively top stitched and lace edged. There are three very faint brown marks to the right breast cup and a faint brown perpiration stain to far side of left cup. The interior is very fresh in appearance. Good condition Dr Warner's sanitary corset - good condition, black satinised cotton is still lustrous. The elasticated back panels have somewhat lost their elasticity and the lower one (nearest the waist) looks slacker than the two bands above. The suspender tapbs at the lower waist still have their polished wooden buttons. Good condition

Lot 58: A robe à la Francaise of Chinese lampas satin,

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Description: A robe à la Francaise of Chinese lampas satin, circa 1760, the fabric circa 1750, the satin woven with bronze and cream peonies and coiling foliage, the open-robe and petticoat trimmed with furbelows of matching braid trimmed silk, the sleeves with shirred double ruffled `sabot' cuffs, the back panel of the skirt of brown and white 1740s European silk, (2)

Condition Report: Sweat stains to linen lining of bodice. Side seams have been let out as have underarm seams and extra panels of fabric have been incorporated. The stitching here looks very neat and is probably early 19th century. There is horizontal seaming th top of the sacque which one would not normally expect to see - it could have been lengthened in the bodice at this poing. There is shot grey/peach silk lining to the sleeves - which has perished. There are extra panels of calico added to the bodice below the waistline and these are also probably 19th century- the fabric doesn't look 18th century. The exterior of the gown is very fresh - just sligh wear to the silk trimming at the rear of the neck and over the shoulders. The pocket openings are intact on the over-dress. The shot pink silk hem lining has perished along the edge and there are splits along the rear hem which have been inexpertly tacked in place. The hem edge appears to be un-altered.The waistband has been let out on the petticoat.

Lot 59: A gentleman's green voided velvet and silk

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Description: A gentleman's green voided velvet and silk waistcoat, circa 1755-60, woven to shape with velvet and beadworked foliate edges, lined and backed in green calico and brown glazed cotton, chest 102cm, 40in

Condition Report: good condition. fabric edges are un-stitched at armholes, one small moth hole to rear skirt, side seams taken in slightly but an 18th century alteration

Lot 60: The Valerie Mansfield collection A sprigged muslin

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Description: The Valerie Mansfield collection A sprigged muslin gown circa 1805, with draw-string ties to the front bodice, trained skirt, the muslin sprigged overall in chain stitch and edged in delicate bobbin lace; together with a photograph of the gown being modelled in the 1970s, (2) Valerie Mansfield was Costume Keeper at Holly Trees Museum, Colchester from 1966 to 1990. With her husband Major Alan Mansfield, they collaborated with the Cunnington's on books including, 'English Costume for Sports and Outdoor Recreations' and 'The History of Underclothes' revised. Valerie was responsible for the exquisite line drawings which illustrated the books.

Condition Report: back of bodice at neck has pulled away from lace edging approx 1cm.

Lot 61: A rare lady's white cotton powdering jacket circa

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Description: A rare lady's white cotton powdering jacket circa 1790, the broad pointed collar and cuffs edged with lawn flounces, ties to the front

Condition Report: Good condition, very fresh

Lot 62: A group of crinolines and a horsehair jupon

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Description: A group of crinolines and a horsehair jupon underskirt, 1870s, comprising: black and white horsehair jupon with flounced and wired hem, wired panier crinoline c.1870; wired crinolette c.1873 with inbuilt bustle; two bell-shaped crinolines and a bustle frame which has been recovered in calico, (6)

Condition Report: Mixed condition, crinolette is good apart from some of the cotton binding to the metal ribs has worn away and one piece of webbing needs re-stitching at the front, and waistband is worn at the fastening; The panier crinoline is generally good though the metal has stained the binding on the framework, other crinoline frames poor condition; the bustle has been recovered and the horsehair jupon - the wire frame at the hem has come unstitched.

Lot 63: An embroidered tea gown, Japanese for the European

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Description: An embroidered tea gown, Japanese for the European market, circa 1890, of pale pink taffera embroidered with chrysanthemums, smocked chiffon insert to the front; together with a pale blue silk housecoat c.1900 embroidered with prunus blossom, chest 81cm, 32in, jacket chest 92cm, 36in, (2)

Condition Report: inner lining of the tea gown has been cut at the centre back for someone larger to fit, some wear to embroidery at rear below neck and in places at underarms, lovely pink colour; pale blue coat - beautiful embroidery, armholes look altered, altered in the 1920s from an Edwardian tea gown

Lot 64: Lots 64 to 67: The property of an English

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Description: Lots 64 to 67: The property of an English aristocrat A fine striped ivory damask gown and matching pelerine circa 1825, piped in cream satin, high V-shaped waist, full, puff sleeves, padded hem with rouleaux trimming and diamond applique satin bands, the perlerine and puff sleeves trimmed with blonde lace; together with an ivory satin bodice with large double-puff sleeves, pleats to bodice, trimmed in blonde lace, bust 20in, waist 24in; together with an image of Lady Monson, (3) Provenance: It is probably the wedding dress of Eliza nee Larken, who married William (later 6th Lord) Monson in London on May 8th 1828. She was the youngest daughter of Edmund Larken of Bedford Square, a successful 'Hong Merchant' - he traded with the Chinese. William Monson's father, Colonel the Honourable William Monson was in the army in India where he met and married Anne, the daughter of John Debonnaire, an East Indies merchant, whose forebears were Huguenot refugees. A serious man, scholar and academic, William took his bride to the family estates in Lincolnshire for their honeymoon, where they visited local parish churches, recording everything in note in meticulous fashion. William and Eliza were well-suited and the marriage was exceptionally happy and fruitful. In a letter to his eldest son - another William - the father advised his son to marry for love. The 6th Baron died in December 1862. His wife died a few weeks later in January 1863.

Condition Report: Very fresh condition, faint yellow stain to lower left tip of pelerine edge. Two diamond appliques need sewing back in place on skirt hem. Small strip of silk has torn inside hem but it is repairable and concealed behind a satin triangle. Tulle and blonde lace over-sleeve is torn on right sleeve - but easily repaired (I have loosely tacked one large torn area back in place on the right sleeve). Separate bodice - very fresh condition also but small faint yellow stain to binding of left puff sleeve.

Lot 65: A Jeanne Hallée (1880-1914) ball or presentation

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Description: A Jeanne Hallée (1880-1914) ball or presentation gown, 1903, with woven label as part of the waistband, '3 Rue Ville L'Eveque, Paris', the bodice with deep point to waist, square neckline adorned with reticella style chemical lace, studded with rhinestones and bugle beads, silver lace trim, the trained skirt with elaborate skirt front and zig zag bands of silver lace to the hem, (3) Provenance: Probably part of the trousseau of Romaine née Stone, daughter of the General Roy Stone, who distinguished himself at the battle of Gettysburg. Romaine married first a fellow American, Laurence Turnure, a banker, at St Paul's Knightsbridge on July 15th 1890, when the Bishop of New York conducted the service. They lived in Paris and Cairo, due to Turnure's delicate health. A daughter Margaret was born in 1896. Laurence Turnure died in 1900. Still young and beautiful, the widow had many suitors, principally the 9th Lord Monson, Augustus Debonnaire John, known as 'Jacko' by the family. The New York Times announced the wedding thus, to marry Lord Monson, Mrs Turnure...Lord Monson is a nephew of Sir Edmund Monson British ambassador in Paris and Controller of the Household of the Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha. Augustus Debonnaire John Monson is the 8th baron of his line. He was born in 1868 and succeeded his father in the peerage in 1900. He is private secretary to his uncle Sir Edmund Monson and is an Honorary Attaché to the British Embassy in Paris. Lord Monson's seat is Burton Hall, Lincolnshire.

Condition Report: The lace band on left shoulder needs re-stitching in place and also narrow band at front of bodice trimmed with bugle beads needs to be re-stitched along the edge. Extra fabric has been added to the back closure presumably to enable someone at a later date to wear as a bridal gown or fancy dress. The waistband has been replaced and the skirt pleats let out. The exterior satin of the gown is good condition but the lining to the bodice at the underarms split where there has been perspiration damage, two faint coin sized perspiration marks showing on exterior and one hole approx 2mm diam, tulle inner lining to the metal lace cuffs has worn but this cannot be seen from the exterior and must have been added to make the dress more comfortable to the wearer. The heavy satin skirt is unlined apart from a silk border along the hem. Skirt has small split approx 1cm long to rear right hip area, soiling to hem edge, two tiny pinhead sized holes to bodice on right side and small faint brown stain 2mm x 1cm below (barely noticeable)

Lot 66: An embroidered yellow silk tea gown, circa 1900,

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Description: An embroidered yellow silk tea gown, circa 1900, adorned with metallic braid and tassels, pastel scattered daisies to the ground, integral blouse panels with wired lace ruff collar

Condition Report: There are a couple of faint stains to the front right skirt panel each approx 2cm x 1cm diam, closure button is missing, soiling at hem, wired lace collar and cuffs, a few small holes in the tulle ground, cream silk camisole has perspiration stains and perishing at the underarms. It has been tucked and tacked to make less full over the breasts, there should probably have been a button or toggle to fasten which is which is missing though the frogging remains

Lot 67: Jeanne Hallée (1880-1914) ball or presentation

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Description: Jeanne Hallée (1880-1914) ball or presentation gown, 1903, with woven label as part of the waistband, `3 Rue Ville L'Eveque', of ivory satin, the bodice and skirt adorned with silver bugle beaded rose trails, the bodice also inset with chemical lace; together with the remains of a Jeanne Hallée pink satin gown with matching embroidered train and an ivory satin skirt, (5)

Condition Report: front waist on bodice has been shortened, the waistband on the skirt has been altered. Wear and perspiration stains at the underarms; Pink gown - the satin has shattered but the embroidery is beautiful.

Lot 68: A pale yellow ottoman velvet evening gown, circa

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Description: A pale yellow ottoman velvet evening gown, circa 1865, the bodice with yellow satin trimming and buttons, matching waistband with large bow, the trained skirt applied with broad band of black Chantilly lace, (3)

Condition Report: The fabrics are unusual, perhaps it is Spanish or Latin American? The bodice is lined in silk which is unusual but it appears to be original, small broken bones help give the shape at the front darts and side seams, small brown speckles to the bodice on one side where a brooch or corsage may have been pinned, skirt has faint scuffing to front panel approx 2.5 x 3cm but this is minor and not particularly noticeable; no obvious signs of alteration, good condition. Black Chantilly may be a later, though still 19th century, addition.

Lot 69: A fine two-tone blue silk faille visiting gown,

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Description: A fine two-tone blue silk faille visiting gown, circa 1870, the bodice with high neck, basque front, short tails to the back with bow, the sleeves gathered and held by contrasting piped and buttoned tabs, the skirt with elaborate tri-angular piped bands each with flounce of pleated silk, pointed, apron-like side panels over trained skirt with internal polonaise ties, coin or watch pouch to the waist, another deep pocket to side seam, (2) This is a superb example of the use of elaborate, exuberant trimmings in two shades of the same colour which was so popular in the early 1870s. cf English Women's Clothing in the 19th Century by C. Willett-Cunnington, 1948, p.256, Thus with two colours one should predominate; the secondary colour must harmonise with the first. Two contrasting colours in contiguity must not be equal in intensity""

Condition Report: Remarkably fresh condition. Four dark blue buttons missing from front bodice, two small perspiration stains at underarms; Few scattered pinholes to bodice where corsages have been pinned. Skirt - one triangular tab needs re-stitching

Lot 70: A Valenciennes lace and ivory satin negligée,

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Description: A Valenciennes lace and ivory satin negligée, circa 1900, with deep lace flounce to collar and cuffs, the back with diagonal bands converging at the rear waist

Lot 71: A Liberty & Co pale blue and ivory silk evening

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Description: A Liberty & Co pale blue and ivory silk evening cape, circa 1895, labelled Liberty & Co Ltd London and Paris, with ivory satin ruffled collar

Condition Report: good condition, slight wear to lining at neck

Lot 72: A rare John Redfern walking suit, circa 1889, of

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Description: A rare John Redfern walking suit, circa 1889, of brown felted wool with black soutache braid and astrakhan trim, labelled "John Redfern & Sons, 242 Rue de Rivoli Paris", comprising: fitted boned bodice with side buttoning; skirt with fullness at the back; the matching bonnet by Louise & Co of Regent Street, (3) The house of Redfern was registered in London in 1841. They were court dressmakers to both Queen Victoria and Alexandra Princess of Wales. They began as drapers in Cowes on the Isle of Wight and employed extremely pretty sales girls who were known as "Redfern's Bunnies". They opened a ladies' tailoring department for the fashionable hordes that descended for Cowes week in the summer and Redfern went on to open the London branch with his sons - Ernest being placed in charge of this and the New York branches. Charles Poynter ran the Paris branch which opened in 1881.

Condition Report: • Bodice: some edging fur is detached and missing at rear right hip area approx 30cm and fur which is present is loose and needs re-stitching (minor), it has all the tiny buttons and the wool is generally in good condition with no stains or moth, silk lining to bodice is good - has one pinhead sized hole. • Skirt: silk ribbon binding at waist has perished, waistband may have been slightly let out but the skirt has lost no fullness, hem needs re-stitching, dust ruffle on hem has been lowered 1cm, slightly broader black edging fur front the front hem is detached and could be used to match the missing fur trim on the bodice side, one pinhead sized hole to rear of skirt, good condition

Lot 73: A rare John Redfern burgundy ottoman silk

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Description: A rare John Redfern burgundy ottoman silk Hussar-style jacket, circa 1890, labelled "John Redfern & Sons Tailleurs de Dames 242 Rue de Rivoli Paris", and with Royal appointment stamps for both Queen Victoria and the Empress of Russia with high stand collar and chemisette of curled white lamb, with Elizabethan style hanging sleeve panels, tall collar edged in gold soutache and bobbles, lined in blue silk; together with a day-jacket of pink and green printed and woven wool, piped in black velvet, similarly labelled, inset with faux silk blouse panels (2)

Condition Report: some of the gold bobbled fringe pendants are detached but intact, good condition; tweed jacket is heavily moth damaged

Lot 74: Three capes, circa 1880-1910, all dark brown

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Description: Three capes, circa 1880-1910, all dark brown comprising: woollen example c.1910 embroidered with swallows and edged with fringes; a Visite of brown plush c.1880 trimmed with bobbles; a ribbed chocolate brown capelet, (3)

Condition Report: All with wear to lining, capelet has 1980s silk trim added, slight moth damage to swallow cape, rubbing over shoulders to the velvet capelet

Lot 75: A fine moss green velvet visiting ensemble, circa

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Description: A fine moss green velvet visiting ensemble, circa 1900, the double-layered bodice with Zouave style faux bolero, adorned with silk cord embroidery, soutache braid and small enamelled art-nouveau buttons, pleated top stitched panels to the bodice and skirt, (2)

Condition Report: Lining to bodice has been restored

Lot 76: A rare Madame Doucet green plush velvet visite,

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Description: A rare Madame Doucet green plush velvet visite, circa 1885, labelled "Mme Doucet 21 rue de la Paix 21 Paris", adorned with copper and purple tinted pendant beads The House of Doucet is one of the oldest Maisons du Couture, claiming that they were founded in 1817 although the first listings for Doucet in conjunction with textiles is not until 1822. In 1845 a Mme Doucet is registered as selling fine lingerie from 17 Rue de la Paix the re-numbering of the street in the 1850s thus changing the shop number to 21.

Condition Report: small golden spotted stains to the reverse and to the front pointed panels, most of the swgged and tasselled beads are intact.

Lot 77: A Madmoiselle Moreau forest green walking

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Description: A Madmoiselle Moreau forest green walking ensemble, circa 1896-1900, labelled "Melle Moreau Robes Manteaux Gracey Cher", the S-silhouette bodice and trained skirt with cutwork and raised embroidered floral bands, ribbon strapwork, brown taffeta ruffles to the cuffs, lined in green cotton; and a pair of white lace lower sleeves, (4)

Condition Report: Very fresh condition, slight wear to some of the ribbon strapwork on the bodice, slight fraying to dust ruffle

Lot 78: A Maison Worth dark brown silk mantle, 1907, woven

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Description: A Maison Worth dark brown silk mantle, 1907, woven grey signature on ivory silk label, no 29882, the pointed collar, front openings and wide cuffs embroidered with black palmettes, with four silk tassels to the collar points and two tassels to front and back waist, lined in ivory satin and edged in black French bobbin lace, the inner cuffs with additional flounces of goffered chiffon, and in falling tiers to the inside front openings, chest approx 101cm, 40in

Condition Report: The hem may have been raised by 1/2 in as the embroidery continues within the hem turn for that amount. Faint 3cm 1 1/4in stain to rear seat area. Tear in black lace to inside of sleeve but easily repaired, slight wear to silk lining at neck but minor. 1in hole in the lace on the inner left lapel area.

Lot 79: A lady's riding habit, English, circa 1890,

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Description: A lady's riding habit, English, circa 1890, comprising heavily boned navy wool double breasted jacket, label removed but the skirt with 'William Scott, 2 Lower Sackville St, Dublin', Miss Dundas, with tiny waist and full skirts; with faux waistcoat chemisette in checked wool, and shaped matching skirt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 46cm, 18in, (3)

Condition Report: good condition, slight moth damage to front of jacket where they have nibbled away at the upper pile but not made holes through

Lot 80: A J.A. Dunn & Co lady's riding habit, late

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Description: A J.A. Dunn & Co lady's riding habit, late 1880s-early 1890s, labelled "J.A.Dunn & Co Tailors & Costumiers 92 Regent St W", of navy facecloth comprising: heavily boned rigid bodice with front buttoning, detachable cotton cuffs, jodphurs with chamois inner lining and side-saddle skirt, (3)

Condition Report: surface crazing of moth damage to bodice particularly over front, shoulders and collar and one moth hole approx 8mm to right waist panel; surface moth to jodphurs rear legs and seat; slight surface moth to the over-skirt

Lot 81: A pink satin Worth ball gown the label numbered

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Description: A pink satin Worth ball gown the label numbered for 1902 but construction circa 1913-18, the woven signature label stamped 57821 and applied to broad petersham waistband, with elaborate beaded and paste inset palmette which meanders from right shoulder to left front, broad silver bobbin lace trim, separate chiffon lace edged inner skirt, pointed train with arm-loop for dancing, bust 92cm, 36in, (2)

Condition Report: Jewelled tulle palmette section is fragile and has holes especially to front palmette due to handling and the weight of the gems, chiffon at underarms is breaking. The under skirt panel is very fragile and probably unpicked from a longer chiffon petticoat. Fair condition

Lot 82: Three Liberty and Liberty style garments, circa

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Description: Three Liberty and Liberty style garments, circa 1900-20, comprising: rose pink satin cape with berry embroidered front borders and tassels, labelled 'Liberty & Co, London and Paris; together with a cream wool cape embroidered with art-nouveau foliage in green silks; and deep blue velvet evening coat with Celtic style embroidery and tassels, circa 1900, (3)

Condition Report: pink satin has small hole, cream wool has faint grey stains to front, blue velvet - some rubbing to velvet over shoulders

Lot 83: A rare Le Dux red leather ladies driving coat,

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Description: A rare Le Dux red leather ladies driving coat, late 1920s, with attractive art deco woven label, of softest leather panelled in diagonal and vertical bands, lined in warm tartan wool, edged in fox fur with bakelite buttons and buckle to the belt

Condition Report: some scratching to leather, fur on cuffs is a bit worn and they have been moved probably to give extra length but could be easily moved back, it has a wonderful label, coat has a red bakelite buckle but black bakelite button - the button may be a replacement

Lot 84: A rare Busvines Ltd beige wool riding habit,

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Description: A rare Busvines Ltd beige wool riding habit, 1920s, labelled '4 Brook St', and with inked tab "Miss Birtonheath" comprising: long slimline jacket, unlined the reverse fabric of red wool, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in, (2)

Lot 85: A plum velvet ensemble, circa 1900, comprising

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Description: A plum velvet ensemble, circa 1900, comprising bodice with purple wool banding and engraved shell buttons and two skirts with single and double tiered wool panels to the hem; with a lace chemisette, (4)

Condition Report: good condition

Lot 86: A rare Poiret for Liberty velvet house robe, circa

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Description: A rare Poiret for Liberty velvet house robe, circa 1930, of double-layered contrasting purple and crimson velvet, frilled collar, with simple tie belt threaded through gold lace edged openings, embroidered to the velvet lining in chain stitch `Liberty by Poiret', chest 96cm, 38in When Paul Poiret's business empire crumbled in the late 1920s (he became bankrupt in 1929 also the year his wife divorced him) he became a freelance designer as a means of scraping a living. In 1933 Printemps commissioned him to design a ready to wear range but it ended in failure due to Poiret's inability to make affordable clothing. This rare example of Liberty clothing must have been a similar venture. Edna Chase the celebrated US Vogue editor wrote of a visit to Paris where she came across him one morning "I hated the hotel coffee so would walk to a small nearby restaurant run by Sherry's for my breakfast. On several mornings I saw Poiret there looking soiled and shabby and someone told me he was completely broke and that Sherry's gave him his breakfast." cf 'Always in Vogue' Edna Woolman Chase p.120.

Lot 87: An olive green Directoire style silk faille coat,

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Description: An olive green Directoire style silk faille coat, possibly Paul Poiret, circa 1911, the diagonal high-waisted fastening with single elaborate silk covered button and pendant silk tassels, smaller silk covered buttons from wrist to elbow, brown silk embroidered arrow-head motifs to the rear waist and upper sleeves, lined in leopard spot and floral printed muslin

Condition Report: good condition, couple of small holes in the hem, two pinheads sized holes to left and right breast areas presumably where brooches or trimming was removed? Slight seam pull at left and right underarms, 1cm spotted stain to rear hem and a few pinhead spotted speckled stains, lining is very pretty

Lot 88: A Mariano Fortuny stencilled white gauze tabard,

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Description: A Mariano Fortuny stencilled white gauze tabard, early 20th century, printed with Near Eastern motifs of black scrolls and edging lines, side slits, chest approx 101cm, 40in cf. Mariano Fortuny His Life & Work, Guillermo de Osma, p.214 for a photograph of an identical tunic in the Museo Fortuny, photograph archive Venice

Condition Report: Repaired vertical split below left armhole 6cm, small split above edge of rear hem approx 3cm long and a few small pinhead sized holes, a few small grey stains - very faint

Lot 89: A beaded flapper dress and evening coat, late

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Description: A beaded flapper dress and evening coat, late 1920s, comprising: pale primrose muslin gown with white and silver bugle beads, dress bust 92cm, 36in;, together with a pistachio velvet evening coat with fur collar and cuffs, silver bugle beads to the shoulders and sleeves, 102cm, 30in, (2)

Condition Report: very slight perspiration marks at underarms on dress and dress-savers have been added, missing the odd little patch of beads here and there; splits and repairs to silk lining on coat, slight soiling to edges, fair condition

Lot 90: A Mariano Fortuny raspberry-pink silk Delphos

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Description: A Mariano Fortuny raspberry-pink silk Delphos gown, circa 1935, the stencilled tie belt marked to the reverse `Fortuny', the shoulders threaded through with cords weighted with brown and white flecked Murano glass beads, contained in original Fortuny box, (4) There is a Provenance note which states Bought from Mariano Fortuny (himself) in Italy in 1935 by Louise A. Corbusier for her spoiled daughter Nancy"."

Condition Report: Pleats have fallen out of place at the rear seat and the underarms. There is a small and faint brown stain on the front skirt of the gown approx 2cm x 3mm; faint perspiration stains at the underarms and one tiny pinhead sized hole. Drawstring at neck has been replaced with a cream cord, slight soiling to inside of neck edge. The hem is generally good - approx 1cm of silk ribbon hem binding has come away and needs re-stitching, a few fairly miniscule holes/separations in the silk to the hem but generally good, fabulous colour. The belt looks as though it has been made narrower, more tapering. There are splits in the silk along the edge of the belt. Where two lengths of silk have been joined vertically across the width of the belt the silk has separated. The box has 2 ½ in strip from lid edge/side which has detached. The box has been initialled in ink 'CKW'.

Lot 91: An Irish crochet jacket circa 1910-15, worked with

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Description: An Irish crochet jacket circa 1910-15, worked with carnations, sunflowers and other blooms with three dimensional florets scattered across the front and back, chest 112cm, 44in

Condition Report: good condition

Lot 92: A Maria Gallenga black stencilled velvet cape,

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Description: A Maria Gallenga black stencilled velvet cape, 1920s, un-labelled, stencilled in gold and silver and lined in magenta satin with similar stencilling to the front openings, small ruff collar to the back

Condition Report: There would have been a narrow ribbon or rope tie to the neck which is lacking, small L shaped hole in satin lining to one side of closure hole and very slight fraying to lining inside of collar - both minor faults

Lot 93: A Mariano Fortuny stencilled silk batwing jacket,

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Description: A Mariano Fortuny stencilled silk batwing jacket, early 20th century, the ivory silk ground stencilled in silver with an 18th century needlepoint lace design, the edges weighted and adorned with white and clear glass Murano beads

Condition Report: Edging cord at neck and front panels has become stretched and loose. Small hole to silk rear left shoulder, faint brown stain to silk lining approx 2cm diam.

Lot 94: A fine and rare Mariano Fortuny stencilled velvet

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Description: A fine and rare Mariano Fortuny stencilled velvet gown, early 20th century, `labelled Mariano Fortuny, Venise', the soft blue velvet ground stencilled in gold with Medieval style patterns, the sides inset with pleated silk and laced with silk cords and fastened with Murano glass beads, bust 91cm, 36in Provenance for this and lot 94: Camilla Eibenschutz, the beautiful and talented wife of Dr Wolfgang Huck editor of some of the most influential newspapers during the Weimar Republic. She was a renowned German actress and was a role model for many women of her generation. She limited her career to the stage, performing mainly in productions by Max Reinhard (1873-1943). She performed in his 1907 production of Shakespeare's Romeo & Juliet as Juliet (see image).

Condition Report: A couple of faint brown marks to the side panels near the hem on each side, remarkably fresh condition,

Lot 95: A couture beige lace cocktail dress, attributed to

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Description: A couture beige lace cocktail dress, attributed to Coco Chanel, circa 1925, un-labelled, the bands of lace with slotted ribbon to the waist, the skirt falling in tiers, with picot edging to the inner silk and satin petticoat, bust 96cm, 38in

Condition Report: Perspiration stains at underarms to petticoat, othewise good.

Lot 96: A rare Agnès/Madame Havet orientalist brocaded

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Description: A rare Agnès/Madame Havet orientalist brocaded silk cocktail dress, circa 1925, labelled 'Agnes, Madame Havet, 7 Rue Auber, Made in France', the ming-style brocade in blue, orange and green highlighted in gold, the black satin pagoda sleeves, hem and collar with blue and gold embroidery, bust 101cm, 40in

Condition Report: Good condition

Lot 97: Two beaded flapper dresses, French, circa 1928,

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Description: Two beaded flapper dresses, French, circa 1928, both with muslin grounds covered with shimmers of silver bugle beads one red, the other pink, both bust 92cm, 36in, (2)

Condition Report: Good condition, both have a few beads missing here and there and loose threads along hem

Lot 98: A Jeanne Paquin labelled green lace and satin

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Description: A Jeanne Paquin labelled green lace and satin flapper dress, Summer 1927, large woven satin label, dated and numbered 40563, with diagonal satin bands converging at the front with two floating panels, interal satin waist slip, bust 92cm, 36in

Condition Report: satin panel to front right side is splitting, slight soiling to satin piping on inside edge of neck opening, a few small breaks in the lace here and there but top of the inside petticoat has perished at the upper edge and underarms, and tulle straps for the petticoat have disintegrated, exterior of the dress looks good

Lot 99: A dramatic black satin opera coat, circa 1900,

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Description: A dramatic black satin opera coat, circa 1900, with kimono-like sleeves edged with deep pendant tassels, the whole adorned with superb coiled rouleaux bands, voluminously cut, chest approx 127cm, 50in

Lot 100: A fine Mariano Fortuny stencilled velvet jacket,

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Description: A fine Mariano Fortuny stencilled velvet jacket, early 20th century, labelled to the pink faille lining, stencilled in silver with sprays of carnations, chest 122cm, 48in Provenance:Camilla Eibenschutz, see lot 94

Condition Report: Good condition, faint brown stain near hem of front left panel but not immediately noticeable, pink silk shoulder pads later added, lining has a few small speckled brown stains to one side but not very noticeable, a few small spotted marks to lining lower left hem and one small grey smudge mark (minor), very faint impression in the pile of the velvet on the front right panel possibly from an iron - hardly noticeable through, 2 small brown rust marks on reverse of right cuff, tarnishing to metal ties

Lot 101: A turquoise and gold brocaded satin evening gown,

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Description: A turquoise and gold brocaded satin evening gown, circa 1917, un-labelled, the bodice adorned with tasselled panel of silver bugle beads, tulle sleeves, above draped skirt with wide inner petersham waistband, bust 86cm, 34in

Condition Report: the tulle on the sleeves has been replaced, restored.