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Vintage Fashion and Textiles
by Kerry Taylor Auctions
Platinum House23 November 2010
Dulwich, United Kingdom
Live Auction40 Martell Road
Dulwich,
SE21 8EN United Kingdom
Lot 1201: A large group of clip-on earrings, approx 32
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Description: A large group of clip-on earrings, approx 32 pairs, mainly 1980s, including chunky gilt examples, turquoise crystal bead, one coloured glass and diamante pair; together with ten gilt necklaces, mainly chain-link, one a Monet choker, (qty)
Condition Report: generally good condition, few of the earrings have tarnishing to the earring backs.
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Lot 1202: A large group of jewellery, including five
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Description: A large group of jewellery, including five brooches including marquisite example; five pendants, three with chains, including abalone shell; four costume rings, one set with small rubies; sixteen necklaces of pearl, silver chain and facetted coloured beads, three with matching earrings, (qty)
Condition Report: Ruby ring is missing one stone, ring set with blue stones is missing a few
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Lot 1203: Two Yves Saint Laurent heart-shaped powder
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Description: Two Yves Saint Laurent heart-shaped powder compacts, 1980s, both signed on the reverse, one with large blue facetted stone, the other with a 'diamond' stone, one with original powder and applicator, 6cm, 2 1/2in diam. (2)
Condition Report: both good condition, blue stone compact is complete with powder and puff, clear stone compact looks unused and doesn't contain powder
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Lot 1204: A Zandra Rhodes `China collection' dress and hat,
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Description: A Zandra Rhodes `China collection' dress and hat, Autumn-Winter, 1979, label to the belt, of cyclamen pink chiffon printed with jade and coral scrolls, edged in red beads, with red satin top-stitched cummerbund belt with ties to the back, the matching disc hat by Graham Smith, bust approx 92cm, 36in (3) Provenance. This ensemble was given as a gift by the Zandra Rhodes team as the vendor worked as a hand-finisher in the studio at the time.
Condition Report: lovely bright coloured print, front left side there is a 4in/10cm vertical tear, 1cm/1/2in hole to one of the rear hem scallops, hat is good condition. Cummerbund has slightly soiled/grimey appearance and needs cleaning
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Lot 1205: A Vivienne Westwood Punkature (Hobo) collection
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Description: A Vivienne Westwood Punkature (Hobo) collection cotton shirt, Spring-Summer, 1983, World's End labelled, with toile and `bladerunner' print, chest 122cm, 48in
Condition Report: Good condition
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Lot 1206: A rare Vivienne Westwood Savages collection cream
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Description: A rare Vivienne Westwood Savages collection cream felt hat, Spring-Summer, 1982, World's End labelled, with colourful knitted cotton inner headband
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Lot 1207: A Vivienne Westwood Savages Collection ikat weave
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Description: A Vivienne Westwood Savages Collection ikat weave dress, Spring-Summer, 1982, World's End labelled, the cream cotton tubular gown with floating panels of ikat cotton to the front and sides; together with a lavender cotton tunic from the same collection adorned with terracotta cotton tufts (2)
Condition Report: small hole in the stockinette at the top of each shoulder on the ikat dress
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Lot 1208: A Vivienne Westwood Pirate collection `tits' top,
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Description: A Vivienne Westwood Pirate collection `tits' top, Autumn-Winter, 1981-2, World's End labelled, of grey stockinette with circular panels tied in knots to the breasts, orange and blue gingham insertions to the upper sleeves
Condition Report: Good condition
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Lot 1209: A Vivienne Westwood brown herring bone tweed
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Description: A Vivienne Westwood brown herring bone tweed belted cape, modern, red label, size 12; together with a grey and black bondage shirt modern, gold label, size 10 (2)
Condition Report: Good condition
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Lot 1210: A Vivienne Westwood `Savages' collection cotton
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Description: A Vivienne Westwood `Savages' collection cotton tunic and calico culotte skirt, Spring-Summer, 1982, World's End label to skirt only, with ethnic print in shades of brown and wine, bust 86cm, 34in; waist 66cm, 26in (2)
Condition Report: Dress is fair codition - the neck edge is very frayed, there are lots of small marks, a small panel has been removed from the side hems; the calico skirt is very
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Lot 1211: A group of Vivienne Westwood separates, Punkature
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Description: A group of Vivienne Westwood separates, Punkature (Hobo) collection, Spring-Summer, 1983, mainly labelled, comprising: turquoise cotton stockinette tube skirt; a pair of breeches similar; a brown and yellow cotton and stockinette top with rope belt; an ecru calico skirt with rope belt; and two pairs of men's trousers with elongated legs in grey and brown cotton, the latter with rag adornments, (6) Westwood's tube skirts began life as a roll of cheap cotton stockinette - similar to dishcloth fabric which she doubled over and dyed in bright colours. She recalled `No one had made one before, the idea of a sweatshirt or jersey tube. You could wear it around your body, however you wanted it, but I liked it really low, ankle-length. I liked this falling-down look, with a bare tummy and a little cropped top'.
Condition Report: Very fresh condition, the yellow and brown top has a ladder in the knit running down the front.
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Lot 1212: A group of Vivienne Westwood clothing, 1990s and
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Description: A group of Vivienne Westwood clothing, 1990s and later, mainly red label, five ensembles including cream pinstriped single breasted man's suit, chest 112cm, 44in; a yellow satin pyjama style top with embroidered orb to pocket; a grey pinstriped wool shift dress, gold label UK size 14 (qty)
Condition Report: good condition
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Lot 1213: A group of Jean Paul Gaultier clothing, 1990s,
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Description: A group of Jean Paul Gaultier clothing, 1990s, comprising: man's double breasted grey flannel suit with slanting pockets, small buttons and wide lapels, broad legged trousers with turn-ups, chest 122cm, 48in, size 52; butterfly printed leggings and vest; white stockinette hooded kaftan; a black wrapover skirt and a pair of tartan tights (qty)
Condition Report: good condition
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Lot 1214: An Issey Miyake `Pleats Please' dress and coat,
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Description: An Issey Miyake `Pleats Please' dress and coat, probably 1990s, labelled, with diamond shaped abstract print to skirt and rear of coat, size 4
Condition Report: Small hole in front skirt and rear skirt of coat
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Lot 1215: A Courreges orange wool dress, early 1970s, Future
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Description: A Courreges orange wool dress, early 1970s, Future Couture labelled, with embroidered logo to high V neck opening, simple slit pockets to the waist, ties to the back, 86cm, 34in
Condition Report: slight soiling, needs cleaning, good condition
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Lot 1216: A rare Marcel Rochas fur trimmed cape, late 1930s,
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Description: A rare Marcel Rochas fur trimmed cape, late 1930s, large woven label, numbered 4490, of brown wool woven with strips of metal thread,
Condition Report: lacking button to fasten and fur is moulting, fur has been attacked by moth. We have lightly vacuumed to remove any infestation, two small moth holes in wool/lurex fabric below neck at back (minor)
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Lot 1217: A Chanel medallion belt, probably 1970s, signed
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Description: A Chanel medallion belt, probably 1970s, signed and marked 2 3, 9809, 66cm, 26in
Condition Report: Good condition
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Lot 1218: A Chanel gilt necklace, signed and 3632, 41cm,
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Description: A Chanel gilt necklace, signed and 3632, 41cm, 16in long; together with three Gripoix filligree pendants, un-signed, one inset with green cabochon stone, the largest 5cm, 2in diam (4)
Condition Report: good condition, the green stone pendant and smaller filigree pendant are darker, more tarnished in appearance
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Lot 1219: Two Chanel belts, probably 1980s, one with strap
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Description: Two Chanel belts, probably 1980s, one with strap of gilt chains interwoven with leather , pendant medallion with lion's mask, 77cm, 30in long; the other of linked gilt chains, the oval clasp with black enamel border and CC logo, 84cm, 33in (2)
Condition Report: leather weave belt -leather thong that threads through the chain which connects to the pendant is broken; gilt belt - good condition, slight tarnishing
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Lot 1220: Three Chanel belts, one with blue celluloid discs,
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Description: Three Chanel belts, one with blue celluloid discs, embossed gilt chain links, probably 1970s, with Chanel tag, 80cm, 31 1/2in; another un-marked, formed from linked gilt chains interspersed with blue and white glass squares, 1960s-70s; the third of gilt chains interwoven with burgundy leather, CC logo filligree medallion, 79cm, 31in (3)
Condition Report: gilt chain belt with wine leather thong - the leather thongs have broken and are missing in places; blue plastic and gilt - good condition; chain belt with enamel glass - good condition
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Lot 1221: A Gripoix for Chanel brooch and chain, 1960s,
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Description: A Gripoix for Chanel brooch and chain, 1960s, marked Chanel, with large square emerald coloured stone, gilt filligree mounts and three pendant blister pearls, the brooch 6cm, 2 1/4in long; associated belcher chain, (2)
Condition Report: Green stone is cracked, belcher chain is darker/tarnished
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Lot 1222: A Gripoix brooch, 1960s, un-signed, with green
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Description: A Gripoix brooch, 1960s, un-signed, with green cabochon stones, lozenge cut brilliants, two pendant droplets, 6cm, 21/4in long
Condition Report: good condition
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Lot 1223: A pair of Gripoix floral ear-rings, probably for
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Description: A pair of Gripoix floral ear-rings, probably for Chanel, 1960s, un-signed, with green glass petals, rhinestone centres, edged in gilt wire, (2)
Condition Report: one green stone has a perforation, good condition
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Lot 1224: Another pair similar of of Gripoix floral
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Description: Another pair similar of of Gripoix floral ear-rings, probably for Chanel, 1960s, marked France, with pearl glass petals, rhinestone centres, edged in gilt wire, (2)
Condition Report: good condition, slight rubbing to the pearlised finish on the petals in places
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Lot 1225: A pair of Gripoix ear-rings, probably for Chanel,
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Description: A pair of Gripoix ear-rings, probably for Chanel, 1950s, marked `France', with central pearls within band of rhinestones and red cabochon outer stones, 3.5cm, 1 3/4in diam (2)
Condition Report: rubber ear pads are worn, verdigris to the backs
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Lot 1226: A Gripoix acorn shaped pendant, 1950s, un-signed,
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Description: A Gripoix acorn shaped pendant, 1950s, un-signed, stamped `France', with pink glass and rhinestone capped acorn below three rhinestone florets, 6ccm, 2 1/4in long
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Lot 1227: A Gripoix pendant/brooch, 1950s, un-signed, with
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Description: A Gripoix pendant/brooch, 1950s, un-signed, with central facetted amethyst coloured stone, the gilt mounts inset with small rhinestones and green blister glass stones with tasselled pendant, 8cm, 3in long
Condition Report: central amethyst stone is chipped, one of the chains at the base of the cross is broken
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Lot 1228: A pair of pyramid shaped ear-rings, probably
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Description: A pair of pyramid shaped ear-rings, probably Scemama, 1950s, marked made in France, of smokey-grey glass with gilt mounts; together with a necklace, probably Scemama, similarly marked, of blue and irridescent stones, 37cm, 14 1/2in (3)
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Lot 1229: A necklace, probably Gripoix, 1960s, marked Sens
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Description: A necklace, probably Gripoix, 1960s, marked Sens Privé, Paris, with cruciform pendant inset with blue stones, 23cm, 9in diam
Condition Report: good condition
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Lot 1230: A Maison Lanvin fashion sketch, `Orphée', 1926,
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Description: A Maison Lanvin fashion sketch, `Orphée', 1926, gouache on grey paper, the dress highlighted in pink glitter, 48 by 32cm
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Lot 1231: A Drian fashion illustration, circa 1905, worked
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Description: A Drian fashion illustration, circa 1905, worked in ink and blue watercolour with lingerie, tea gown and evening gown, approx 41 by 31cm
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Lot 1232: A Morgue fashion illustration of day ensembles,
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Description: A Morgue fashion illustration of day ensembles, 1940s, gouache on paper, of a pale green cape suit and a chequered coat with green hat and skirt, 28 by 23cm within mount and frame
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Lot 1233: La Femme Chic - original magazine cover artwork by
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Description: La Femme Chic - original magazine cover artwork by P. Louchel, 1942, in watercolour on paper, depicting a scarlet wool dress, fur coat and hat, signed to lower corner, 31 by 24cm, within mount and frame
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Lot 1234: Three Serge Matta fashion designs, circa 1952, all
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Description: Three Serge Matta fashion designs, circa 1952, all bearing Serge Matta stamps, in ink and watercolour, mainly in grey tones, 48 by 31cm (3)
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Lot 1235: Three Serge Matta fashion designs, circa 1952, all
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Description: Three Serge Matta fashion designs, circa 1952, all bearing Serge Matta stamps, in ink and watercolour, mainly in pastel pink, blue and lilac, 48 by 31cm (3)
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Lot 1236: A P.Louchel fashion illustration, 1945, signed and
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Description: A P.Louchel fashion illustration, 1945, signed and dated, in black watercolour on paper, depicting a lady in fur trimmed, veiled hat, Paquin-like dress and fur coat, 27 by 21in within mount and frame
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Lot 1237: A Vivienne Westwood black velvet evening ensemble,
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Description: A Vivienne Westwood black velvet evening ensemble, probably `Always on Camera' collection, 1992-93, Red label, comprising: boned corset bodice, size 14, matching low-fronted cropped jacket with gilt orb buttons; and a micro-mini skirt, with buttoned-up rear skirt flap revealing panel of tulle and lace, jacket bust 92cm, 36in, skirt waist 71cm, 28in (3)
Condition Report: Good condition
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Lot 1238: Three Sarah Whitworth evening ensembles, late
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Description: Three Sarah Whitworth evening ensembles, late 1980s, labelled and size 12-14, comprising: black slubbed silk long skirt, bolero jacket with ivory satin facings and an overdress with boned bodice and graduate skirt lined in ivory silk; a ruched black cocktail dress with white silk trim, bustle, back lacing; and a black halter-neck mini with rafia trim to the bust, bust approx 92cm, 36in, (5)
Condition Report: Good concition
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Lot 1239: A printed muslin summer gown, circa 1890, made
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Description: A printed muslin summer gown, circa 1890, made from mid 19th century fabric; together with a drawn and pulled threadwork summer dress, early 1920s, bust 87cm, 38in (qty)
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Lot 1240: An Anna de Wolkoff ivory damask evening gown, late
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Description: An Anna de Wolkoff ivory damask evening gown, late 1930s, Conduit street label, with band of pleated rose chiffon edging the bodice and straps and forming a cascading train to the rear of the skirt, bust approx 92cm, 36in; together with a Turkish embroidered apple-green silk kaftan; and a sequined black chiffon stole (3) This lot is being sold in aid of Oxfam
Condition Report: Good condition, hem is soiled, pleated chiffon panels are good; green silk kaftan in good condition, very fresh; stole in good condition
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Lot 1241: A Christian Dior London slubbed ivory silk
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Description: A Christian Dior London slubbed ivory silk presentation/bridal gown, circa 1959, labelled and numbered 17130, the high-waisted, corsetted bodice adorned with three bows, and full tulle petticoats, 82cm, 32in; together with a Dior London printed silk faille suit, c.1960, labelled and size 16, the jacket chest 102cm, 40in (3)
Condition Report: Ivory gown has bad perspiration marks at the underarms, skirt is a bit crumpled, dress is soiled generally and in need of cleaning, straps have frayed, nice design but fair-poor condition; black and blue chine dress - skirt is attached to a black silk camisole so the jacket has to be worn at all times, good condition
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Lot 1242: A Calugi e Gianelli `Violent Angels' black leather
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Description: A Calugi e Gianelli `Violent Angels' black leather biker jacket, 1988/89 collection, labelled and size 52, with printed metallic inserts to the front lapels, twelve further graphic panels to the reverse edged with metal studs, multiple zips to waist, chest 127cm, 50in This lot is sold in aid of Oxfam
Condition Report: lining is slightly soiled - would benefit from cleaning, slight scuffing to leather and to one of the printed metal panels on the back
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Lot 1243: A group of white mother of pearl buttons, 23
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Description: A group of white mother of pearl buttons, 23 cards, of varying sizes, and two cards of grey mother of pearl; together with a box of beadwork, (qty)
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Lot 1244: A group of mainly white mother of pearl buttons,
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Description: A group of mainly white mother of pearl buttons, 24 cards, including some tines, and facetted examples; one card of grey mother of pearl and two cards of white glass, (qty)
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Lot 1245: A group of assorted buttons, including coloured
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Description: A group of assorted buttons, including coloured celluoid 1930s-50s on shop cards; dress shirt, wasitcoat and boot buttons; as well as jet-like, facetted examples, (qty)
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Lot 1246: A general group of trimmings, accessories, lace,
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Description: A general group of trimmings, accessories, lace, textiles, including Edwardian dress appliques, Honiton lace collar, a tapelace applique skirt panel, assorted trimmings, a Chinese child's waistcoat and miniature dolls 1920s; an 1870s French reversible Paisley shawl and others (qty) This lot is being sold in aid of Oxfam
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Lot 1247: A carriage parasol circa 1870, with tatting lace
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Description: A carriage parasol circa 1870, with tatting lace canopy, turned wooden grip; together with another of black taffeta trimmed with lattice of satin ribbons, ebonised handle (2)
Condition Report: Good condition
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Lot 1248: A tent stitch embroidery, 18th century, worked in
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Description: A tent stitch embroidery, 18th century, worked in wools with a couple in a landscape bordered by giant blooms, 65 by 62cm
Condition Report: Large areas of sky and background - the embroidery has worn away, slits in the linen canvas ground at the upper borders
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Lot 1249: A rare boating blazer and matching cap, probably
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Description: A rare boating blazer and matching cap, probably Guard's Boating Club, late 19th century, labelled Farrell & Sons, Camberley, and the name M.E.F. Berryman, of scarlet and ivory wool with plated Guardsman's buttons, chest 107cm, 42in (2)
Condition Report: 2 small darned and patched repairs to rear skirt but very well done. Faint brown smudge-like mark to right shoulder. Front of jacket - numerous small damp speckles, a brown smudge stain between 2nd and 3rd buttons, several small pinhead sized moth holes. Hat - good externally apart from 2 tiny patched repairs in red area (not immediately noticeable), inside lining is stained.
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Lot 1250: Three bridal gowns, comprising: Norman Hartnell
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Description: Three bridal gowns, comprising: Norman Hartnell ivory damask gown with tulle inner panniers, labelled,, early 1950s, bust 97cm, 38in; ivory satin gown c.1940 with long train, blonde lace insertions and rosebuds to bodice, bust 86cm, 34in; another of lily of the valley printed satin c.1940 with satin florets to the bodice, trained skirt, 86cm, 34in (3)
Condition Report: Hartnell gown has had sleeves removed so it can be worn as an evening gown, otherwise good condition.
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