A DIAMOND FLORAL CLIP BROOCH, BY BULGARI
Designed as a floral spray, the sapphire and diamond flower heads set en tremblant, to the baguette-cut diamond branches enhanced by vari-cut diamond and sapphire accents, mounted in platinum, late 1950s, 7.0 cm wide, in brown leather case
The Tremblant Brooches
Since the eighteenth-century, floral motifs given realistic form and composition were prevalent in French jewellery. Some of these were mounted en tremblant meaning that their blossoms were attached to the mount on small springs so that their flower-heads would tremble and sparkle with the slightest movement. In the 1950s and 60s, the Italian jeweller Bulgari was considerably influenced by these French designs and so created a series of en tremblant jewellery. The firm's sheer variety of natural floral compositions is impressive covering sprays, bouquets and baskets full of precious diamond flowers. This modern interpretation of what was once an antique conception is indeed admirable, and came to be known as the tremblant brooches.
Glittering and sparkling with the slightest movement, Lot 2385 is a diamond flower brooch whose notable feature is the wire-coiled spring mount that allows the marquise and pear-shaped diamond petals to quiver, creating a visually stunning effect and a feeling of spontaneity. The sapphire and diamond flower brooch, offered as Lot 2384, also showcases this special spring-mount mechanism. The blue-and-white blossoms tremble to catch light from different angles, and the use of an array of oval, marquise and pear-shaped diamonds provide additional brilliance and fire to the jewel. Both these pieces which come with matching ear clips, are wonderful examples of the tremblant brooches. Thus Bulgari did not invent this unique characteristic but in perfecting it, and above all creating a remarkable series of tremblant brooches, the firm certainly made these pieces its own during the mid twentieth-century.
The economic growth and riches after the war saw a return in the 1950s and 60s of high jewellery distinguished by designs that were lavishly set with diamonds. It was a time of great prosperity and of a great cinematic era that produced famous films like 'Roman Holiday' and 'La Dolce Vita'. Bulgari's tremblant brooches were real best sellers in their day (and were also used as hair ornaments) as has been seen on Ingrid Bergman and H.I.H Princess Soraya on their film-sets.
Ref: 'Between Eternity and History, Bulgari, From 1884 to 2009, 125 Years of Italian Jewels'. Amanda Triossi (ed.). Skira. Milan. 2009.