Description: A rare Mary Nowitzky (Maria Novitskaya) 'butterfly' dress, circa 1930, with narrow blue on ivory woven signature label, 'Mary Nowitzky, Paris', the blue columnar dress with printed and hand painted butterfly winged sleeves, an acid-green rear panel with double-tiered butterfly print to hem, sash ties to the front, bust approx 92cm, 36in Mary Nowitzky (the French spelling) opened her fashion house in Paris around 1924. She became famous for her silk beach-pyjamas, knitwear, sportswear and painted silk creations. She married Prince Victor Kochubei and emigrated to America in the 1930s where her success continued. In 1928 Harper's Bazaar commented that, 'The combinations of colours are notable for their brightness and fancifulness...bold yet harmonious colour combinations'. Literature: `Beauty in Exile' by Alexandre Vassiliev pp 212-213.
Condition Report: Central blue column dress: couple of tiny spot stains on bodice front and down front of skirt, perspiration stains at underarms, though none are immediately noticeable due to the strong colour. Small 0.8cm split near front hem. Brown stain on rear seat area approx 10x4cm but this is concealed by the acid green train/tunic. Butterfly sleeves: generally good condition. There are pairs of poppers that form optional cuffs. The left sleeve has a small, faint spot stain and there are 2 edges that need re-stitching each approx 1cm and 3cm long (minor). Train: inside back has a scattering of small brown spots that are not visible from the outside. Butterfly panel to hem is good. Upper, shorter train panel has faint brown watermarks and numerous brown stains - though not particularly noticeable on a mannequin. Butterfly hem has a 2cm diam stain which is concealed within the pattern. Waist sash ties: are soiled at the end borders - upper areas are fresh, couple of pinhead sized holes and couple of tiny breaks in picot edging. Rear left shoulder and rear neck edging have faint perspiration stains and small splits are forming in 3 places at the neck edge and 2 small splits in the left shoulder No alterations
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