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Lot 368: AN ART DECO 'TUTTI FRUTTI' GEM-SET BRACELET, BY CARTIER

Est: CHF 300,000 - CHF 500,000Sold:
Christie'sNovember 16, 2005Geneva, Switzerland

Item Overview

Description

The carved emerald, sapphire and ruby leaves with pavé-set diamond branches and cabochon collet detail to the diamond and cabochon emerald geometric link spacers, mounted in platinum, circa 1930, 18.0 cm long, with grey leather case
Signed Cartier, London

Artist or Maker

Notes

THE PROPERTY OF A LADY OF TITLE

Christie's Geneva, 15 May 1986, lot 487

The 'tutti frutti' style of jewellery was originally called simply 'pierres de couleur' (coloured stones). Only in the 1940s was it named 'tutti frutti', probably inspired by the bakelite fruit jewellery, which was famously worn by Carmen Miranda in her number 'The Lady in the Tutti Frutti Hat' in the 1943 Hollywood film The Gang's All Here (rf. Judy Rudoe, Cartier 1900 - 1939, London 1997, pp. 208-210).
The emphasis on the carved texture stand in contrast to the white geometrical, two-dimensional design mostly encountered in Art Deco jewellery. Thus, nature subtly made its way back into jewellery without compromising on sophistication. This particular bracelet combines the sensuality of the carved stones with strictly geometric elements so typical of the Art Deco era, dividing the lush garden of precious stones.
Cartier's network of buying agents in India enabled them to procure rare Indian stones, including gems naturalistically carved in leaf, blossom and berry shapes. The decoration on these stones was based on the Islamic flower cult of the Moghul Emperors and inspired Cartier's designers, Charles Jacqueau in Paris and Georges Genaille in New York, to creations of which this is a splendid example.

Auction Details

Magnificent Jewels

by
Christie's
November 16, 2005, 12:00 AM EST

8, Place de la Taconnerie, Geneva, 1204, CH