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Lot 5: An art nouveau glass, baroque pearl, diamond and enamel pendant necklace, Fine Jewellery

Bonhams

October 7, 2014
New York, NY, US

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Description

designed as a shield-shaped molded glass pendant with light blue patine, depicting a floral motif; enhanced by rose-cut diamond detail, suspending a baroque pearl, measuring approximately 10.35mm., from a light blue enamel link chain; signed Lalique, with signed box; necklace length: 22in.; pendant length: 3 1/4in. (pearl untested for origin, loss to enamel)

Notes

This pendant necklace likely dates from the period 1902-1905, as the address on the fitted box indicates that it was sold from Lalique's Cours la Reine workshop, where he moved in 1902. By 1905, he had opened premises for selling jewelry and glass objects at 24 Place Vendome. Lalique had been experimenting with glass in jewelry since 1893, almost always combining the effects of glass and enamel, and his passion for the material continued to grow. In this molded glass jewel, wheel carving and staining allow Lalique to give the mass of chrysanthemums both depth and translucency. At the same time, the individual blossoms are subtly differentiated to show nuances of sky blue and violet shading. The rose-cut diamond tendrils provide a glittering counterpoint. Lalique enjoyed simple country flowers, such as these old fashioned Emperor of China chrysanthemums, and, as with many of his flower jewels from the period, the heavy blossoms are downward hanging. A number of his pendants from the period 1900-1905 also suspend a single baroque pearl. A few years later, by 1910, Lalique began to turn away from jewelry entirely, feeling constrained by the large number of imitators his innovations had inspired.

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Fine Jewelry

by
Bonhams
October 7, 2014, 1:00 PM UTC

New York, NY, US