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Lot 647: AN IMPORTANT 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER

Est: $1,950,000 HKD - $2,800,000 HKDSold:
BonhamsWan Chai, Hong KongNovember 28, 2020

Item Overview

Description

AN IMPORTANT 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
Set with a carved emerald, weighing 93.34 carats, decorated with square sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, in a round brilliant and square-cut diamond frame, to the carved ruby and emerald bead and carved sapphire leaf 'Tutti Frutti' cluster extending five strands of carved emeralds and rubies, with diamond-set rondelle spacers and carved sapphire leaf detail; signed Cartier, no. EAS626, with French assay and maker's marks, accompanied by signed case; also accompanied by a Cartier box which includes documentation, drawings and a gemological report; mounted in platinum and 18k white gold; length 19cm
For further information on this lot please visit the website

Condition Report

Accompanied by Carat Gem Lab report #CGL13224, dated 14 December 2016, stating that the emerald is of Afghani origin and has indications of oil.

For further information including original purchase documents and colour sketches, please refer to the department.

OVERALL CONDITION: white metal stamped for platinum; bracelet clasp and safety clasp secure; overall in excellent condition.

DIAMONDS:
Approximate total number of diamonds: 309 (of round, square and princess-cut)
Approximate total diamond weight: 5.75cts
Approximate overall diamond color and clarity: E-F colour, VVS clarity.

SAPPHIRES:
Approximate total number of sapphires: 20
Approximate total carat weight: 48.14cts
Sapphires of blue colour, light to medium saturation and tone. Upon 10x magnification, there are natural inclusions such as minute fissures, abrasions on facets detected on some of them but they are not noticeable to the naked eye.

REMAINING EMERALDS:
Approximate total number of emeralds: 88
Approximate total carat weight: 187.84cts
Emeralds of green colour, light to medium saturation and tone. Upon 10x magnification, there are natural inclusions such as minute fissures, abrasions on facets and tiny nicks detected on some of the beads but they are not noticeable to the naked eye.

RUBIES:
Approximate total number of rubies: 22
Approximate total carat weight: 58.07cts
Rubies of red colour, medium to medium strong saturation and tone. Upon 10x magnification, there are natural inclusions such as abrasions on facets and tiny nicks detected on some of the beads but they are not noticeable to the naked eye.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
Length: 19.0cm
Width: 4.9cm
Gross weight approximately: 149.92g

This condition report is provided for your convenience based on the opinion of our gemologists. Bonhams is not responsible for any discrepancies between this information and other opinions.

Please note additional images and videos are available upon request, kindly contact the jewellery department at [email protected]

Provenance

Accompanied by Carat Gem Lab report #CGL13224, dated 14 December 2016, stating that the emerald is of Afghani origin and has indications of oil.
For further information including original purchase documents and colour sketches, please refer to the department.
彩色寶石'Tutti Frutti'手鍊,卡地亞阿富汗祖母綠重93.34克拉,附Carat Gem Lab證書,設計繪圖,購買檔案及原裝盒如欲細閱相關文件,請與珠寶部聯繫
Instantly recognizable, Cartier Tutti Frutti jewels are some of the most sought after in the world. Combining glamour and exoticism in a riot of color, the history of these rare jewels began more than a century ago.
Cartier started designing jewels inspired by India as early as 1901 when Queen Alexandra of England commissioned a necklace to be worn with her elaborately embroidered Indian gowns. In 1911, Jacques Cartier went to India for the Delhi Durbar, a two-week spectacle celebrating the coronation of George V (Alexandra's son) as Emperor of India. Jacques went to India to find clients and came back with carved emeralds and other gems, including some purchased from the maharajas of Patiala and Kapurthala. He shared these stones with the Paris workshops where they inspired the creative genius of Louis Cartier and designer Charles Jacqueau.
The brilliant Jacqueau was one of the originators of the Art Deco movement. He and Louis abandoned the delicate swags and festoons of earlier decades and introduced bold color and motifs from ancient cultures. His notebooks are full of Chinese temples, Egyptian tombs, and Persian carpets, which were all eventually translated into fantastical jewelry. When the carved Indian stones came onto his desk, he designed light, airy platinum frames that were minimal and geometric to hold the colorful carved stones.
In the 1920s, while Indian princes were coming to Cartier to have their family pieces redesigned, Europeans and Americans fell in love with Cartier's jewelry inspired by Indian motifs. Jacqueau designed a series of carved sapphire and emerald necklaces Louis called 'peacock.' Centering massive emeralds carved with foliate patterns, these pieces were made for only the very best clients including J.P. Morgan, Baron Édouard de Rothschild, and The Aga Khan.
But it was the bracelets registered in the Cartier books as 'foliage' that has captured and kept the attention of collectors for a century. Featuring a palette of carved emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, what has come to be known as Tutti Frutti captured the exuberance and delight of the 1920s and unique examples are still created by Cartier High Jewelry today. Taking master artisans hundreds of hours, they are made with the utmost care and remarkable beauty and flexibility.
This Tutti Frutti bracelet borrows from the traditions of the past, with the central carved foliate emerald and the diamond and sapphire frame a reference to the famous peacock necklaces. The extraordinary graduated band displays the carved rubies, emeralds, and sapphires—both leaves and fluted balls—that are emblematic of the great Tutti Frutti designs.
Courtesy of Sarah Davis
卡地亞(Cartier)的水果錦囊Tutti Frutti系列起源於一百多年前,可說是近代珠寶史上最受歡迎的珠寶系列之一,其結合繽紛色彩及異國風情的風&... For further information on this lot please visit the Bonhams website

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Auction Details

Hong Kong Jewels and Jadeite

by
Bonhams
November 28, 2020, 01:00 PM HKT

11th Floor Six Pacific Place 50 Queen's Road East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong, 999077, HK

Terms

Live bidding may start higher or lower

Buyer's Premium

$1 - 100,000:27.5%
$100,001 - 5,000,000:25.0%
$5,000,001 - 50,000,000:20.0%
$50,000,001+:14.5%

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$500$999$50
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$2,000$2,199$200
$2,200$2,799$300
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$4,200$4,799$300
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