Comprising a necklace, a bracelet and a pair of earrings, formed of sculpted gold links of foliate and scroll design, set with a variety of colored stones, including sapphires in multiple hues, blue and purple spinel, pink tourmaline, amethyst and zircon, in round, cushion and various fancy shapes, lengths of necklace and bracelet 18½ and 6 7/8 inches, earrings with later-added backs, signed Tiffany & Co.
PROPERTY OF ANOTHER OWNER Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933) had already established his reputation as a leading proponent of the American Art & Crafts movement when, at the turn on the century, he turned his attention to jewelry. The characteristic hand-wrought style that he had previously employed with a variety of mediums was reinterpreted on a smaller scale to form sinuous, naturalistic mountings for what was aptly named "art jewelry". Louis Comfort's stylistic predilections were a departure not only from the more conservative creations of Tiffany & Co. while under the direction of his father, but also from the work of his Edwardian contemporaries. While the prevailing fashion called for diamonds and pearls, Louis Comfort selected gemstones for their chromatic potential and ability to transform light, a process undoubtedly informed by his work with stained glass windows. In the present suite of jewelry, bright orange sapphires are juxtaposed with blue spinels, pink tourmalines and amethysts, the use of so-called semi-precious stones serving to underline his affinity for visual impact over intrinsic value. The creeping gold vines of the mounting envelop the colorful crystals, as though the earth is attempting to reclaim its riches. The overall effect is very organic and very much in keeping with the principles central to Louis Comfort's artistic philosophy.