Antique and Vintage Peridot Jewelry: Discovering the Golden Green Beauty
Peridot’s intoxicating green has enchanted wearers for centuries, but its surface sparkle is only part of the gemstone’s amazing legacy. With divine connotations and therapeutic uses, peridot’s brilliance goes far beyond the perfect jewelry setting. Join us as we mine into the rich history of peridot augmented with some striking examples.
Origins and History
Excitement over peridot began nearly 4,000 years ago when the ancient Egyptians discovered a deposit of the gemstone on a remote volcanic island in the Red Sea. The yellow-green stone they discovered became known initially as “topazos” in antiquity and gave the island its original name (today it’s known as Zabargad or St. John’s Island) and soon became coveted across the empire. Famed historian Pliny the Elder dedicated a full chapter to discussing the stone. It even noted a colossal “topaz” brought back from the area as a gift for the queen of Pharaoh Ptolemy I. As the celebration of the stone grew, peridot developed divine connections as well. Symbolically linked to both the Egyptian deities Isis, Goddess of Life, and Ra, God of the Sun, the stone was seen by ancient Egyptians as having talismanic properties and thus could protect its wearers from nefarious forces.
Peridot continued to be revered across history. For instance, hundreds of carats worth of the luxurious lime-hued stone were used to adorn the 12th-century Shrine of the Three Kings in Germany’s Cologne Cathedral. Peridot pieces then surged in the 19th century in Victorian England, the momentum from which carried peridot into the 20th century as one of the most popular gemstones available. It was around 1910 that peridot was officially declared August’s birthstone.
Characteristics and Properties
One peek at a perfect peridot and it becomes clear why this beautifully bright green stone has garnered such enduring attention from jewelry makers both past and present. Technically a form of olivine, peridot can come in a wide range of green hues from a rich shade of olive to a light yellow-leaning green. The depth of color is determined by the concentration of iron within the crystalline structure of the stone. Adding to its allure is that it formed from volcanic activity, as its presence in the upper mantle of the Earth means that each eruption propels it toward the surface.
Thanks to this position, peridot is relatively easier to mine than other gems like diamonds that require deep dives into the Earth’s crust. What it gains in accessibility, though, it misses in durability. Ranking around a 6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, peridots like garnets are softer than sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds and thus need to be attended to when wearing to avoid damaging scratches.
Symbolism and Meanings
Beyond its beauty, peridot’s symbolic meaning has only expanded since the ancient Egyptian era. In addition to its talismanic properties that have been celebrated across history, peridot has been associated with:
Compassion
Linked by some to the heart chakra, the core energy center of the body, peridots are often described as encouraging compassion or love.
Creativity
Peridots are also seen as motivating creative ingenuity within those who wear them. This facet of peridot symbolism might be enhanced by the good luck that the stone purportedly can bring.
Purification and Balance
Peridots have also been described as encouraging mind and body balance. In addition to reportedly leveling moods, peridots have been supposedly capable of regulating metabolism and even ridding the body’s organs of toxins.
Uses in Jewelry and Fashion
Throughout history peridots have proven a versatile adornment from fashion to jewelry. Some of the most spectacular uses include:
Sculpture
In addition to jewels, ancient Egyptians used a related variation of the stone known as peridotite to craft sculptures of gods and rulers.
Rings
Peridot rings give ample space to showcase the brilliant shades of the stone’s green as showcased by famed designers from Rene Lalique to Tiffany & Company.
Necklaces
Peridots also have been the focal point of numerous necklace styles and have helped to demonstrate the versatility of the stone, from use in faceted settings to beads.
Bracelets and Brooches
Subtle pops of peridot also accentuate the gemstone’s beauty in the form of a Hermes brooch or a David Webb bangle bracelet.
Jewelry Parures and Demi-Parures
Why stop with a peridot ring when you can have a complementary set? Such is the logic behind the striking parures, like those crafted by iconic designer Bulgari. Parures are sets of jewelry typically including matching necklace, ring, and earrings (when only two pieces are included it is called a demi-parure).
Mining and Sources
From its rumored discovery on the island of St. John, peridot has been discovered in veins around the globe. One of the biggest deposits has been sourced in Arizona in the United States, however, the most prestigious peridots typically come from the mines of Pakistan and China.
Given its location in the Earth’s mantle, mining for peridots is less invasive than for other stones like diamonds. That said, there is no established ethical mandate for mining peridots, so it is difficult to ensure that mining sites that produce these stones don’t negatively impact the surrounding communities. Given this, the savvy shopper will want to ask questions about where their peridots were sourced and how they traveled from mine to jewelry maker.
Closing Thoughts: From Collecting to Caring for Peridot
Peridot offers one of the more unique color ranges, and its crisp hues are a captivating complement to luxurious yellow or white gold settings. Even better is that peridots often fall at a price point below iconic stones like diamonds, so they can make for a gemstone to begin a jewelry collection or to splurge on a substantial set stone. For those embarking on a peridot collection or seeking to add to their already glistening gemstone holdings, here are a few closing tips on how best to collect and care for peridots.
Considering the “4 Cs”
Like other gems, peridots are assessed based on the 4 Cs: color, carats, clarity, and cut. The bright, lime-green peridots tend to be more celebrated than the darker shades, and the stone’s clarity from yellow or brown flecks or cloudy inclusions also influences price. Of course the bigger the stone the more expensive it will be (depending on color and clarity). The same goes for peridots combined with other gems or in larger sets like parures. The cut can also factor in, particularly in terms of the appearance of the stone. Round-cut peridots will be super sparkly, however, peridots in an emerald cut will best showcase the stone’s breathtaking green.
Caring for Peridot
As one of the softer gemstones, care is essential to ensure the longevity of your stone. Avoid wearing it in scenarios where contact might result in chips or scratches. Peridots are also susceptible to heat shock, with rapid transitions in temperature often leading to fractures within the stone. In addition, cleaning should be performed by hand with warm, soapy water as ultrasonic cleaners might also prove damaging.
Whether it is the history of the stone, its various symbolic meanings, or the beautiful color that draws you in, peridots make for a fantastic jewelry investment. Knowledgeable collecting and care will only enhance the long-term luxury of your peridot pieces so that they can sparkle for generations to come.
Alexis holds a PhD in art history and has enjoyed professional roles across gallery, museum, and academic settings. Thanks to these myriad experiences, Alexis holds a wealth of knowledge across the fields of fine and decorative arts and enjoys every opportunity to share these insights along with the stories of these makers and objects with Invaluable collectors.