Jazz Age Gems: Collecting Art Deco Jewelry from the Roaring Twenties

From fanciful flappers to infectious musical riffs that electrified speakeasies across the country, the Jazz Age, also known as the “Roaring Twenties”, was a period of decadent Art Deco design. Nowhere was this intoxicating era’s aesthetic felt more boldly than in the realm of Art Deco jewelry where bold color and clean forms merged with both exotic and modern influences.

In this article we jump into the splendors of the Jazz Age to explore these captivating creations. We’ll situate jewelry within the wider context of the Art Deco movement as we journey through the dazzling design highlights that still lure in collectors today. 

Origins and Evolution of Art Deco Jewelry

Roaring in at the dawn of the 1920s, Art Deco design emerged partly in response to the cultural and political shifts of the era. The end of World War I in 1918 ushered in promise for a peaceful post-war period. The subsequent onset of Prohibition in 1920 – a nationwide ban on the production and sale of alcohol intended to curb social issues – ironically fueled a fascination with the forbidden and inspired a thirst for extravagance and indulgence. This environment encouraged creatives to pursue new and imaginative designs that celebrated the richness of the modern world. Clean lines and streamlined geometries spoke to modern technological innovations, while exotic references nodded to an increased globalism and teased with the allure of far-off lands. 

While these ideas were already percolating in art and design between the late 1910s and early 1920s, it was the official “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels”, held in Paris in 1925, that gave “Art Deco” its name. This exhibition, overflowing with major designers – including glass pieces by René Lalique and furnishings by Emile-Jacque Ruhlmann – revealed the potential of Art Deco style within modern international design thinking. From that point, and into the subsequent decade, Art Deco aesthetics dominated.  

Design Aesthetics and Characteristics

Art Deco jewelry can quickly be identified thanks to the shared aesthetic elements typically woven into each piece. These central characteristics include: 

Sleek Lines

Borrowing from the clean contours of early 20th-century architecture as well as the more streamlined silhouettes popular in period fashion, Art Deco jewelry took on classic geometrical symmetries that synthesized seamlessly and glamorously with one another.

Playful Colors and Patterns

Embodying the era’s energy, many Art Deco jewelry pieces also incorporated bold colors that added pop and contrast to their designs. At the same time, patterns – some borrowed from distant, historic religions and cultures from the ancient empires of Egypt or Japan – also flourished in many Art Deco jewels.

Alluring Materials

Given that decadence was the catchphrase for the era, it should come as no surprise that Art Deco jewelry designs often pulled in extravagant materials from glistening metals like platinum and gemstones to the textures of tortoiseshell, enamel, and more.

These combined characteristics helped to secure Art Deco jewelry’s status as a timeless testament to taste. 

Iconic Pieces and Designers of Art Deco Jewelry

Understanding these core characteristics is best achieved by surveying some of the most iconic creations by the treasured designers of Art Deco jewelry. These makers include: 

House of Cartier

Established in the mid-19th century in Paris, the House of Cartier – led by namesake Louis-François Cartier – gained an incredible array of illustrious clientele thanks to the high quality of their jewelry lines and their ongoing innovation. That novelty pushed Cartier to contribute some of his early Art Deco designs at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs. These lines, like the gem-encrusted “Tutti Frutti” and “Panthère” motifs, soon became some of Cartier’s most coveted and thus linked the House of Cartier indelibly to the Art Deco era. 

Van Cleef & Arpels

First opening its doors in the closing years of the 19th century, Van Cleef & Arpels – so-named for married founders Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels – garnered incredible acclaim and accepted notable commissions as early as the first decade of the 1900s. Known for their use of exceptional materials – their tendency toward platinum, for example, in the 1920s earned them a reputation for their “white” jewelry – aligned naturally with the Art Deco aesthetic. In addition to elegant decor like vanity cases, Van Cleef & Arpels’ most coveted examples from their Art Deco years are arguably their “Zip” necklace and “Mystery Set” necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, all of which showcased the brand’s mastery of craftsmanship and innovation in jewelry design.

Jean Després

Raised in a family that owned a jewelry store and trained in silversmithing in Paris in the early 20th century, Jean Després can only be described as a revolutionary in Art Deco jewelry designs. A pioneer of bold geometric forms and the incorporation of diverse materials, Després succeeded at convincing an entire generation of the future of jewelry and decorative arts design. Distinct from his colleagues in that he specialized in both jewelry and a variety of decorative furnishings, from candlesticks to vases, Després displayed some of his most innovative play with material nevertheless in his brooches and parures.

The Legacy in Collecting Art Deco Jewelry 

Art Deco jewelry remained a favorite into the 1940s, with later design studios like those of Ostertag and Paul Brandt ensuring the continued exploration of the style. It was not until the aftermath of World War II that tastes shifted into a more “retro” aesthetic. Despite these changing tastes, the allure of Art Deco pieces never vanished. Still today Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels designs from the Art Deco era sell for record-setting prices. When the sparkle of an Art Deco sapphire ring or emerald bangle catches your eye, always run through a quick checklist to determine if pursuing it makes sense. Specifically, always check for:

State of Stones

If the jewelry’s gemstones show signs of wear, like scratches or interior fractures, or the settings are loose, inquire about a full condition report for the piece. This report can also illuminate the types of stones used, which can make a difference in price point. For example, some Art Deco jewelry designers like Cartier worked with rock crystal, which might be mistaken for diamond if not carefully scrutinized. 

Signature Search

Always seek out signs of a maker’s signature, as this is a strong guarantee that the Art Deco jewel you are investigating is authentic. These marks are often found on the underside of the piece or clasp. 

What You’ll Wear 

The brilliance of Art Deco jewelry is that its styles range from the catchy and classic to the indulgently opulent. Given this, it is always a strong idea to consider how you see your Art Deco jewelry aligning with your own personal style. A stately Art Deco diamond ring might be the perfect acquisition for those seeking a true statement piece from the past or to commemorate a major contemporary event like an engagement. On the other hand, styles that offer less luster – like a Georges Fouquet bracelet made from enamel, ivory, and coral – might make better accents for everyday wear.

Regardless of where or how you’ll sport your new Art Deco jewelry, collecting these magnificent pieces means capturing a brilliant bit of jewelry history. The ageless beauty of Art Deco design is captured perfectly in jewelry, with a sparkle that will tantalize for years to come.