How to Identify and Buy Cameo Jewelry

Cameos have been used for a variety of purposes throughout history. The first iteration of cameos can be traced as far back as 15,000 B.C., where ancient civilizations in Egypt carved figures into rocks as a means to record significant events. Since, they’ve been decorated with a wide range of carvings, representing everything from mythological and biblical beings to status and prestige.

Authentic cameo pendants are still highly valued and collected today, lending way for waves of unique interpretations of this quintessential vintage jewelry staple. Recently, contemporary fashion and jewelry designers have been breathing life into a new, modern representation of cameo jewelry, seen in collections from esteemed designers like Dolce & Gabbana and in brooches, bracelets, and other artistic forms. Collectors have access to a wide variety of cameos on the market today, each with its own detailed artwork and rich history.

What is a Cameo?

A cameo is a hard or precious gemstone—often agate or onyx—carved in relief so that the figures project from a supporting background. The most common motif of antique cameo jewelry depicts a profile of a face or mythical creature. There are typically two colored layers; generally, figures are carved in one layer so that they are raised on the background of the second layer. Today, popular imitations are often carved in glass called pastes or in mollusk shells, a practice that was popularized by Queen Victoria of England.

A Brief History of Cameo Jewelry

Cameos have a rich history with many different variations and meanings. We can trace their origins back to Egypt in 15,000 B.C. where petroglyphs, or figures carved in rocks, were used to record events. Through the centuries that followed, these figures evolved, and were remodeled based on trends that reflected the time in which they were produced.

During the reign of Alexander the Great in the 3rd century B.C., Greek and Roman cameos incorporated religious figures and mythological images. Also during this time, specifically in the Hellenistic era, women wore cameos to display their willingness to engage in the act of lovemaking.

Throughout the Renaissance, Pope Paul II was known as an avid cameo collector, and displayed his carved gems and stones on his fingers. Most of these depicted religious subjects and medieval carvings. The Quattrocento collectors, those from the 15th century Italian cultural and arts period, began distinguishing among the ancient cameos. The Pope’s prestigious holdings were acquired by the Medici, a powerful family who ruled Florence throughout the Renaissance and had a major influence on the growth of the arts and humanism, after his death.

Women of the upper class began wearing impressively carved gemstones as a sign of wealth and prestige in the 18th century. Carvers soon realized they could use Plaster of Paris molds—quick-setting plaster named from its preparation from the abundant gypsum found near Paris—to recreate such gemstones as records of notable cameo collections. Scottish gem engraver and modeller James Tassie began using molds of these revered collections to recreate glass pastes that could pass as authentic, carved jewels.

Carvers realized just how easily they could replicate expensive jewels. They discovered the use of Cornealian shells, which were soft, durable, and easy to carve. England’s Queen Victoria is credited with popularizing shelled cameos in the 19th century. As interest grew, French military leader Napoleon took a particular liking to the craft. He brought carvers from all over Europe into France to create cameo jewelry for both men and women. He even commissioned furniture to be designed with cameos carved out of precious gemstones like opal, sapphire, and garnet.

The 19th century introduced a new type of cameo, those that were made from petrified lava. Colored lava extracted from an archaeological dig at Pompeii proved useful for highly detailed carvings. Women during this time were embarking on their Grand Tours, which were traditional trips were taken by wealthy young European men and women when they had come of age, serving as an educational rite of passage. Women often purchased lava cameos as mementos from their travels, which established the objects as a symbol of status and wealth.

During the 20th century, as costume jewelry became mainstream, inexpensive replicas of antique cameo jewelry made out of shell and plastic emerged. Today, a vast array of cameo types are available on the market, with contemporary designers borrowing from antique designs of the past.

Cameo Jewelry Value

Whether valuing a cameo brooch, necklace, or any type of pendant, there are many ways in which you can best determine the value of your piece. Accessibly priced cameos are carved from seashells, but those carved from stones have sold for thousands of dollars at auction.

Material

The finest, more expensive cameos are those made from semi-precious and stone materials. Agate is one of the most popular since it’s difficult to carve and requires significantly more talent to produce. Those made of stones will outlast the less expensive recreations made from shells or plastic. A simple test is to place a hot needle against the cameo. If it melts, it was made from plastic. If not, it’s likely authentic.

Age

Like many vintage collector’s items, the rareness of a cameo is a stronger determinant of value than its age. For example, though the Roman Empire predated the Renaissance era, Renaissance cameos are considered more valuable as there were far fewer produced during this time. The metal used can also give an indication of when it was made. If the mounting is a pinchbeck—an alloy of copper and zinc resembling gold—it was likely made between the early 18th century and mid-19th century. Gold electroplating wasn’t patented until 1840, so all cameos that are plated were carved after this date.

Image

When examining the carving on your cameo, it’s best to hold it up to a light to ensure there are no major cracks. Those that have three or four layers of color and a metamorphic image, which includes several subjects, are particularly valuable. Further, colored stones like opal, lapis, and emerald are rare, so they’re even more expensive.

Original Setting

The setting, or framing, is one of the most important determinants of age and value. Those that are remounted are considerably less valuable. The setting will be different depending on the era from which it was produced. For example, Victorian cameos often feature confined, simple frames as opposed to the jeweled, pearled versions that followed decades later.

How to Buy Antique Cameo Jewelry

When you’re ready to buy cameo jewelry, it’s important that you’ve fully assessed the piece’s value to the best of your ability. Replicas of authentic cameos have been around for centuries, so it’s best practice to ask the seller for a guarantee in writing before purchasing, when appropriate. Here are other tips for buying antique cameo jewelry:

• Feel the temperature of the piece. Real stones will remain cool, but plastic warms quickly due to the temperature of the room and heat of your skin.
• Stress lines are okay, but cracks will hurt the resale value of your collectible.
• The more details and the finer the detail, the more valuable a cameo typically is.
• “C-clasp” pins on the backs of cameo brooches generally help verify their authenticity.
• A collection of a specific type of cameos can sell higher than a single cameo.
• When in doubt, always consult an expert or second opinion.

How to Clean and Care For Cameo Jewelry

Antique cameo jewelry is subject to discoloration over time. While hard stones are more resilient, shells are prone to cracks and dryness. It’s important to clean your antique jewelry to preserve its value, beauty, and prolong its lifespan. Fortunately, caring for your cameo is relatively uncomplicated.

Cleaning
To clean your cameos, simply wash them in warm, soapy water. Avoid using any abrasive detergents or cleaners, and always wipe with a soft cloth. It is also recommended that you avoid using ultrasonic jewelry cleaners, as these can affect the color of your piece. Allow it to soak for 30 minutes.

Storing
Store your cameos in a soft cloth away from other jewelry or items that much scratch it. Wipe away dust frequently. Because they’re prone to cracks, it’s recommended that you oil your piece a couple times a year. Do not use olive oil, but opt for a mineral oil which tends to be odorless and colorless. Dip your finger in the oil, then apply it to your cameo using your finger. Be sure to wipe off completely when finished cleaning.

Cameo jewelry is a timeless antique that continues to flourish in the market today. With a plethora of antique options available, and contemporary designers creating reimagined versions of classics, we’re afforded the ability to continue to collect and wear beautiful pieces in the form of bracelets, necklaces, earrings, brooches, and pendants.

Sources: Collector’s Weekly | Britannica | PBS | Town & Country | Collecting Vintage Jewelry | Cameo Jewelry | Jonathan’s Diamond Buyer | The Cameo Collection | Jewelry Shopping Guide