Cartier Jewelry: From Louis-François Cartier to Modern Ownership

Cartier’s journey from a small Parisian workshop to a global luxury brand is a fascinating tale of innovation, craftsmanship, and enduring elegance.

Who Was Louis-François Cartier?

Louis-François Cartier, born in 1819 in Paris, was the founder of the renowned Cartier jewelry house. Cartier was founded in 1847 when Louis-François Cartier took over his master’s workshop after a year-long apprenticeship. From the start, his unique eye for design and an innate understanding of luxury helped Louis-François Cartier establish himself as a master jeweler. In time, Cartier would become one of the most prestigious names in jewelry.

The maison quickly became a favorite jeweler among European royalty and aristocracy, and positioned himself at the forefront of luxury watch design, with innovations such as the Santos, one of the first wristwatches. The Cartier family retained the firm until 1964. Cartier jewelry is now produced by the Richemont Group but has remained true to the motto, coined by Louis Cartier, “Never imitate, always innovate.”

The Founding of Cartier

The Cartier company was officially founded in 1847 when Louis-François Cartier took over the workshop of his master, Adolphe Picard. Located right in the heart of Paris, Cartier’s workshop was in the midst of the design and fashion capital of the world. It was here that his brand developed its trademark of exceptional craftsmanship and innovative design work. Cartier moved to a more prominent location on the Boulevard des Italiens in 1859, a move that marked the beginning of its transformation into a global luxury brand.

Louis-François Cartier: “Jeweler of Kings and the King of Jewelers”

As Cartier’s reputation grew, so did its list of prestigious clientele. When Princess Mathilde, cousin of Emperor Napoleon III, bought a Cartier creation in 1855, she launched the maison into Parisian high society and beyond. Louis-François Cartier earned the title “Jeweler of Kings and the King of Jewelers” due to his association with royalty and the aristocracy of imperial French society. His fame even reached across the Channel, as the prestigious, if unofficial, title was first bestowed upon him by King Edward VII of England.

During Louis-François’s tenure, Cartier expanded its reach beyond continental Europe by opening boutiques in London and New York. The company’s designs rapidly became synonymous with high society and sophisticated tastes, which explains why they were favored by royalty, celebrities, and the social elite. Some of Cartier’s most iconic creations from this era include the “Bestiary” pieces, which featured intricate animal designs, and the introduction of platinum in jewelry.

Crowned heads and aristocrats were particularly drawn to the maison’s neoclassical diamond jewelry, mounted in a novel metal – platinum – which was favored for its flexibility and lightness.

Cartier employed many talented Parisian designers, such as Charles Jacqueau and Pierre Lemarchand, who were pivotal in creating many of the brand’s most remarkable pieces and cementing its place as a leader in the world of high jewelry. Thanks to the visionary Jeanne Toussaint (appointed creative director of Cartier in 1933), Cartier channeled a wide array of fashions and influences into elegant and era-defining jewelry. The brand also excelled at watches and many remain icons to this day. 

Who Owns Cartier Today?

Cartier remained a family-owned business for several generations. Louis-François’s legacy extended beyond his lifetime, as his grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, continued to expand the brand’s global footprint. Under their leadership, Cartier continued to flourish, becoming a symbol of luxury and refinement worldwide.

In 1964, the Cartier family sold the company, marking the end of an era. The brand changed hands a few times before being acquired by the Swiss Richemont Group in 1988. Cartier has continued to thrive under Richemont’s ownership. The group has invested significantly in preserving the brand’s heritage while Cartier’s collections have expanded beyond jewelry to watches, accessories, and fragrances.

The company has also distinguished itself with its luxury luggage lines, refined perfumes, and elegant accessories. In 2005, Cartier became one of the 14 founding members of the Responsible Jewellery Council, which has established an ethical, social, and environmental code of conduct for participants in the jewelry trade – including precious watches – from mines through to retail.

Key Cartier Jewelry and Watch Designs:  

Cartier is of course known for its innovative and original high jewelry lines. Unafraid to play with abstract shapes, geometric forms, and unique color pairings, the firm quickly moved with the times and embraced movements such as neo-classicism, art deco, and modernism with verve.

Cartier Santos

Cartier is known for pushing the boundaries of design and innovation. For instance, at the turn of the century, most people wore a pocket watch. But Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont needed a “hands-free” way to check the time during his flights so he asked his friend Louis Cartier to come up with a solution. Cartier did not disappoint and presented him with a watch on a leather strap designed to be worn on the wrist. Named after the aviator, the Santos made the wristwatch incredibly popular. Delicate diamond-set wristwatches for women were also introduced to much fanfare. “The wristwatch is now the fashion of the hour,” heralded a Parisian newspaper. “Women are changing all kinds of jewelry for this new bauble.”  

Cartier, La Tortue

A decade later, in 1912, Louis Cartier designed the tortoise-inspired watch, the Tortue. At a time when most watches were round, the unusual, angular form was an instant hit.

Cartier, The Tank

Another classic is the Tank, created in 1917. The design was inspired by the Renault FT-17 tanks, which Louis saw during World War I. The rectangular watch has remained in production ever since and has been a favorite with A-listers such as Jacqueline Onassis, Andy Warhol, and Michelle Obama.

Cartier, Pasha

A story surrounds the Pasha de Cartier, although the maison Cartier declines to comment on its veracity. In the story, the Pasha of Marrakesh, Thami El Glaoui, had commissioned a unique timepiece from Louis Cartier, which would be resilient and water resistant. Cartier invented a watch with a large diameter, a crown cover and metal grid to protect the dial.

Cartier’s Tutti Frutti

One of its most famous creations is the ‘Tutti Frutti’, an eye-popping design that brought carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires together in vibrant combinations. Marrying Western and Eastern traditions, the Art Deco design was inspired by the colors of India. It was a highly experimental and original design – and the first to mix colored stones in such abandon. Today, Tutti Frutti necklaces and bracelets are much sought-after and highly prized. In 2020, a Cartier Tutti Frutti bracelet sold for more than $1.3 million at auction, the highest price for any jewel sold that year.  

Jeanne Toussaint’s Le Panthère

Cartier would not have been the same without the supremely talented and charismatic Jeanne Toussaint, its director of fine jewelry, who held sway at the maison for much of the 20th century. She was known as ‘the panther’ because she had a penchant for their skins, which decorated her home. The fierce animal became a signature motif and the house mascot after the Duke of Windsor commissioned a brooch for his wife, Wallis Simpson, featuring a yellow gold panther perched on a 116-carat cabochon-cut emerald. 

Cartier Trinity Ring

The Trinity ring also plays a central part in the Cartier story. Conceived in 1924 by Louis Cartier, it remains key to the maison’s jewelry range to this day. Its three interlinking bands symbolize enduring love – it’s been seen gracing the fingers of style icons such as Princess Diana and Nicole Kidman.  

Maintenance Tips for Cartier Jewelry

Be sure to handle your precious Cartier jewelry and watches with care. Remove the piece when washing your hands or using corrosive products that could damage precious metals, stones, or pearls. Jewelry should be stored carefully, preferably in its original box, and cleaned regularly. If your piece contains lapis lazuli, coral, pearls, turquoise, emeralds, or a significant cluster of stones, cleaning should be undertaken by one of the specialists at a Cartier boutique. Otherwise, you can brush the jewelry gently using a small soft brush and warm, soapy water, then rinse and dry with a soft cloth. Cartier advises that you take your pieces to a Cartier boutique to have them checked and cleaned yearly and to have the strings of any pearl necklaces serviced.