5 Fresh Jewelry Styles to Flaunt This Spring

Lot 9081, Citrine, sapphire and diamond ear pendants; Right: Lot 9192, Coral necklace, c. 1920,
Koller Auctions (March 28)

By: Rachael Taylor | The daffodils are in full bloom – at least in a few lucky spots in the Northern Hemisphere – leaving all of us yearning for more bursts of botany and the official coming of spring. This widely welcomed season has us thinking about which colorful jewels we’ll flaunt in warmer temperatures, including a handful of standout gems from Koller’s Jewelry auction on March 28. Here are a few of my own spring favorites.

Precious Flowers

Just like the real thing, it’s always uplifting to see the gold and silver wreaths of winter replaced by more delicate blooms and posies – both Boucheron and Louis Vuitton used the recent Paris Couture Fashion Week to launch collections inspired by flowers. Evoke the Flower Power of the 1960s with a diamond-dewed pair of studs from that era (for a luxe version, throw in a couple of pistachio-hued Tahitian pearls), or tap into this season’s vogue for brooches with a diamond bombé design decorated with a blue sapphire flower motif – matching earrings included. My favorite floral design has to be these Sunflower-esque gold and diamond ear clips by David Webb.

Lot 2076, Diamond and gold flower ear clips by David Webb, Koller Auctions (March 28)

Delicate Diamonds

If you prefer to take a less literal approach to spring adornment, diamonds look good in any weather. However, in spring, those shimmering chips of rainbow look best catching the sun in small doses, preferably dotted along a long, relaxed chain on bare skin, like this white gold sautoir set with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds, or this shorter platinum necklace from Tiffany & Co. with 15 diamonds. A sleek pre-war diamond line bracelet would also do the trick when imbibing an early Pimms.

Lot 2149, Diamond bracelet, c. 1910, Koller Auctions (March 28)

Sunshine-Yellow Gold

While the sun might not be at its full strength just yet, we can live in hope – and channel it through luscious sunshine-yellow gold. Nobody does gold jewelry quite like the Italians, and Italian jeweler Pomellato has used the country’s age-old bulino etching technique to bring a sumptuous texture to the yellow gold links of this necklace (there is a similar bracelet in the Koller sale, too). Other well-known names with yellow gold jewels in the sale include Van Cleef & Arpels with one of its iconic zipper designs, and Cartier with a pair of simple diamond-accented hoops.

Lot 2063, Multigem and diamond necklace and bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, c. 1950,
Koller Auctions (March 28)

Swimming-Pool Blues

While dark sapphires speak of glamorous, candle-lit evenings, fellow blue gems aquamarine and turquoise positively radiate fun in the sun, and warmer evenings. This 43ct aquamarine pendant is the perfect jewel for a spring black-tie event and will light up the room (as well as your face). For off-duty looks, twisted ropes of turquoise beads are a natural fit with a crisp white shirt, or bring out your inner Roman goddess with this archaeological revival-style necklace from 1880.

Lot 2121, Turquoise & diamond gold necklace, c. 1880, Koller Auctions (March 28)

All of the Brights

Should you now be feeling a tad more emboldened to try out the joys of spring jewels, why not throw caution to the gently warming wind and embrace big pops of color. Red coral, like this flexible bracelet, will bring a tribal edge to outfits, while these carved multicolored gemstone earrings and bracelet will have everyone guessing whether it’s Cartier Tutti Frutti. Emerald cabochons make a bold color statement for those who like green, as does a string of jadeite beads. And if you’re feeling truly in the spirit, slip on some bright orange galuchat (stingray leather) and diamonds, courtesy of deGrisogono.

Left: Lot 2237, Diamond bangle by De Grisogono; Right: Lot 2003, Coral and diamond bracelet
with ring, Koller Auctions (March 28)

See more stunning jewels fit for spring available to buy now and in upcoming auctions on Invaluable.

About Rachael Taylor

Rachael Taylor is a freelance journalist who writes about jewelry and watches for a number of titles, including The Financial Times. In her 10 years reporting on this rarified world, she has traveled to industry fairs throughout the globe, a Fairtrade gold mine on top of a Peruvian mountain, silver jewelry factories in Thailand, and regularly has access to the most sparkling jewels and people in the business.