Chain Necklaces

The beauty of an antique chain necklace lies in its air of eternity. This quality, combined with the relative ease of manufacture, made chain link necklaces an attractive type of adornment early in the ancient world.

These first chains, made from simple loops of gold or silver, were popular among the cultures of the ancient Mediterranean as a symbol of affluence as well as eternity. Over time, the chain links became increasingly refined, with jewelers developing different link gauges, or sizes, as well as discovering ways to dangle pendants or beads from individual loops.

Over time, the chain link necklace evolved into a wide variety of chain link styles, from the simple trace link, which consists of delicate rounded rings, to the more intricate herringbone, in which links are woven together to create a luminous, seemingly liquid strand of metal.

Quick Facts

• Surviving ancient Roman and Egyptian chain jewelry from the 5th-7th centuries A.D. includes the more complex body chain styles. These extended necklaces wrapped around both the neck and the torso, literally wrapping the body in lustrous gold
• In addition to signifying eternity, the chain also became a symbol of strength and industry. Renaissance master Leonardo da Vinci, for example, was known to sketch prototypes for chain links amid his designs for engineering innovations
• Also during the Renaissance, Venetian jewelry designers developed a link style made from thin gold wire rings that were joined and then looped through another set to create a woven or mesh motif. This technique, originally known as “entrecosei,” is better known today by its simplified cousin, the Venetian link chain