The Male Sale

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We are delighted to be back with the next instalment of our specialised menswear auction: The Male Sale.

The auction opens with an impressive selection of contemporary ensembles from the likes of Kim Jones at Dior, including a remarkable bullion-embroidered double-jacket ensemble created in collaboration with the artist Peter Doig; refined and elegant tailoring by Tom Ford for Gucci; and bold, expressive looks from Vivienne Westwood and Roberto Cavalli.

The contemporary avant-garde section is led by an important early jacket from Maison Martin Margiela. Simplified versions of this iconic collarless design are still sold in stores today. Also offered is an achingly rare piece from Demna Gvasalia’s degree show, revealing the confrontational brilliance that defined the designer’s work, even from the very beginning of his career.

We are especially excited to present the largest collection of Carol Christian Poell ever offered at auction. Comprising 76 lots from the enigmatic designer, the collection provides a rare insight into a label that has long operated beneath the radar. Dating from 2005 to 2010, the pieces include examples from important collections such as Disjointed and ’00 Off-Scene, alongside remarkable artisanal works featuring titanium prosthetic inserts and zips with individual teeth hand-pressed directly into the leather, details that frequently surpass the workmanship of many haute couture houses.

The avant-garde spirit of this era also extends to cult underground labels such as MA+, Carpe Diem, Number (N)ine, Augusta and Diciannoveventitre (A1923). The selection includes tailoring, leather garments, footwear and accessories from brands so distinctive and elusive that many remain overlooked even within the most esoteric fashion circles. But, of course, if you know, you know.

Paul Harnden, another designer who enjoys a devoted cult following, is represented by a strong selection of full ensembles, jackets, footwear and accessories. Harnden’s nostalgic vision of menswear centres on quality, simplicity and understated ruggedness. His work has attracted a loyal international following that includes John Galliano, who is frequently photographed wearing the designer’s clothing.

If you have not yet had your fill of Comme des Garçons from our dedicated Dot Comme auction, there are some exceptional examples here as well, alongside works from the 1980s through to the 2020s by other influential Japanese designers, including Yohji Yamamoto, Kansai Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.

The sale also features important early works from Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood’s legendary Seditionaries boutique. Highlights include iconic printed muslins, alongside rare trousers and T-shirts from one of the most influential periods in the history of fashion.

The auction includes the largest selection of Antony Price menswear ever offered at auction. Price was a designer perpetually ahead of his time and, perhaps for that reason, never fully received the recognition he deserved. During the 1970s, Jean Paul Gaultier was among his regular customers, and Price’s influence can be traced not only through Gaultier’s work but also through the designs of Mugler, Versace, Vivienne Westwood and countless others. Every piece in this collection was gifted directly by the designer, many in unique colourways. Several originate from important collections, including the two celebrated Fashion Extravaganzas of 1983 and 1984, productions that blended fashion, music and showmanship into hour-long spectacles that attracted audiences numbering in the thousands.

Several of the standout lots come from the legendary designer Jean Paul Gaultier. Highlights include a spectacular sequined, military-inspired jacket that combines glamour and radical self-expression within a demure colour palette, as well as a rare men’s corset whose panelled construction echoes that seen in the costumes created for Madonna’s Blonde Ambition tour.

John Galliano is considered one of the greatest designs of our time, and we are excited to announce that we have two important pieces from some of his earliest and most groundbreaking collections. Alongside these,  there are other important pieces of the 1980s British avant garde by the likes of Christopher Nemeth and Richard Torry.

There are also a number of celebrity-owned pieces. These include Ed Sheeran’sGucci jacket, a custom-made jacket for Peter Sellers, and a bespoke suit of remarkable quality made for Charles Boyer, the French-American actor who starred in films such as Love Affair, Algiers and Gaslight (from which the term “gaslighting” derives).

Perhaps the most spectacular of the celebrity-worn garments is Bunny Rogers’beaded catsuit ensemble from The Amethyst Ball of 1981. Neil “Bunny” Rogers was a British couturier best known for popularising the Capri pant. His wit, humour and personal style were legendary, and countless examples of his acerbic remarks survive in the recollections of friends that included Vivien Leigh and Princess Marina. Worn by Rogers at the lavish celebration of his seventieth birthday, the ensemble featured a purple beaded catsuit crowned with a dramatic feathered headdress. Presenting himself not merely as host but as the living embodiment of the evening’s theme, Rogers created a lasting image of exuberance and individuality.

The sale also contains several fascinating pieces relating to motorcycle culture. These include a contemporary interpretation of the café racer jacket by Hedi Slimane for Yves Saint Laurent, alongside significant earlier examples such as a 1950s jacket later used within the 59 Club and a rare pair of 1930s motorcycling trousers.

The auction concludes with an important green silk tailcoat dating to circa 1805, the kind that would likely have been worn by an Incroyable. The design is characteristic of the period, with a dramatic high collar giving way to exceptionally broad lapels. Following the fall of Robespierre in 1794, the Incroyables adopted extravagant dress, oversized green coats, elaborate cravats and tightly cut trousers to signal both wealth and a rejection of earlier revolutionary uniformity. Offered in excellent condition and retaining its original linings, this extraordinary survival provides a vivid glimpse into one of the most flamboyant moments in the history of menswear.

We look forward to seeing you all at our viewing days, and please do not hesitate to get in touch to request condition reports.
– Alex

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